The car ran fine until I parked it after a short lunch pickup at the grocery store. The wideband shows 22.4:1 on startups, I need to keep the throttle going with the pedal. Seems to hesitate and a turbo creep noise coming from the intake filter.
What I tested so far:
-Plugs seems white for running lean, BKR7ES with 600km on them.
-I bypassed the fuel filter and fuel line underneat the car with a rubber fuel injection hose from the pump pickup, Had 45psi fuel pressure when tested.
-Power transistor is grounded
-Cap, rotor is sparking properly, spark at the four plugs
-fuel pump is priming and sounds normal when operating, GSS341 walbro 2000km new...
-I opened the fuel tank, pickup is low in the tank, 40liters of fuel in the tank...
-remove every spark plugwires sequentially to check for spark, only misses when removing...
Its been a month since the car is parked, 12 hours of diagnostic, replaced alternator and replaced injectors with 550cc just to make sure the 444 weren't clogged...ran 9:1 a second then returned to 22.4:1 and ran roughly until I shut it down.
Vacuum leak underneat the manifold??? I hear a hissing noise from underneat the intake manifold but spraying it profusely with intake cleaner didn't make the rpm go higher or react differently.
Any advices for me to look further, getting freakin tired of the car as I wrenched a lot more than drove it for the last 4 months...
have you checked for boost leaks?
RNN14
coolant leaking into cylinder(s)?
checked every coupler possible.
no white smoke while running, coolant level is fine, looking with a bright light through spark plugs holes: pistons tops aren't wet. Will do a real pressure test on the cooling system shortly.
We'll find it.
Thanks for helping me on this one guys.
Is a Nistune tuned ECU can de-program over time not running or losing 12 volt ?? Should I try the oem tuned ECU?? Even with a Z32 MAF, it can at least idle right...
if you have the stock ecu laying aaround and if its simple as plug and play then yeah i would definitely try it out see if it idles better at least ...
Idle air Control? sounds like air is geting in and lots... I always recomend a presurized smoke test ... best way to find leaks... if you can find a shop with a smoke tester,.,, get there card lol
Also what are your plug gaps?
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
Yeah, I will definitely try it.
yeah, it might be the culprit after thinking about it. I work in a garage that happens to have a smoker. Actually, we're in the tire seasonal changeover rush and the garage is fully occupied. I will be patient and wait until it'll be less crowded.
Any advice where I can find a IACV valve?? any interchangeability from other cars??
there's vacuum hoses behind the intake manifold that you may have missed
http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/default.aspx?v=826
http://www.gtiroz.net/gallery/gtir/misc/diagrams/vacuum-piping.jpg.html
http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/default.aspx?v=186
Finally got the car running, it idles ''ok'' but not like before the break. Now, the power is a lot less like its building around 0.7 bar. Used to build 1 bar and pulling a lot stronger.
I have a GT2871R 56 trim at 1 bar on the wastegate spring...
I'm hearing a hissing noise from under the manifold and the AFR at idle hunts up and down like the engine is compensating fuel to get the engine idling...when arriving at a stop sign, the AFR is 22.4 for 4-5 seconds then it gets to 15-16:1 when waiting for the ECU to correct by itself.
Its smells like hot metal when waiting at the stop sign...
Giving you guys a update on the condition of the car for you to understands how it runs now. I think about sending it to my tuner to get a consult diagnostic and a fine tune on the dyno. Something is still not right about the car and I don't want it to blow on the dyno also...
BTW, I have a set of 550cc injectors I'm dont need anymore, I bought them brand new at ADF Diesel where they remanufacture injectors. 200$ for the 4 injectors if you happen to need any...
After sending my car to my mechanic, they worked 15 hours on the car and found nothing important. They found the fuel pump was working intermittent so they replaced it (a 2200km walbro GSS341). The problem is still there...They inspected the turbo timer, so far nothing is wrong with it. Checked the relays, they all work. The car blows heated seats fuses seldomly even if I dont have any heated seats...
Now the car has very strange AF ratios. On idle without any accessories (lights off, no radio...) It idles at 14.5:1 fine so far but as soon as I demand electricity (turn on my rad fan switch or turning on the lights) the AFR goes 22.4 AFR... like if the injectors are on and off...we removed them, checked if the filter baskets were dirty, they are super clean.
Tried to drive the car without turning on the lights, it runs 7.8:1 full throttle (when it ran 11.5:1 before the trouble)...We heard the turbo in the exhaust system like if it had a super short straight pipe, whirling noise whatsoever....
back-tracked every ground, positives, fuse boxes, eccs relay, ECU relay...I'm empty-handed... I'm going to post a video of the car operating shortly.
Never had so much problems with any car I had before. I'm beginning to hate the car.
you mentioned you changed injectors , did u reprogram an ecu or use a safc to alter signal to the injectors ?
u can't just change injectors like that
I changed injectors from 444cc stockers to 550cc low impedance just to check if I had more fuel related to the same rpm. tested 30 seconds then swapped back the 444 stockers.
I had plenty with the 550 (9:1 idle and sounded almost like flooding, still idled) returned with the 444 to idle 14.5 steady no electrical demand...
We are in a trial and error state of troubleshooting because we seem not to find the trouble source. its pretty frustrating.
do u have a datalog with a consult cable
it would really really really really really really help
I cant get my consult to work with my laptop...I'll post a video of the symptom shortly.
i can't help with guessing, u really need data
sorry
I would check you battery... if yourve got a dry cell they act funny and vary in impediance ect causing weird ground like symptoms...
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
As soon as I have any data collected, I'll post them right after.
have you guys ever seen an ECU losing his tune. I have a daughterboard with Nistune inside...my tuner is very far for the car to get there. it runs 22.4 steady speed on the highway. Dont want to end up with a burned motor...
resistor pack faulty??
Maybe I should test an OEM ECU??
if u have nisune, u can just download the trial software and datalog everything
oh and if u have one of those crappy serial port consult cables, get a usb one from http://www.nismotronic.com/consult-logging-cable/ecutalk/ecutalk-usb-consult-cable_01_10.php
i just ordered one of these not sure if it will work, but its worth a shot http://www.trackelectronics.com.au/consultBT
that's the one I got:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-OBD-diagnostic-consult-infinity-S14-RNN14-VQ30DE-/230686709897?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b5ffd889&vxp=mtr
I downloaded the trial version of nistune on their site. Is there any place I can find a definite version I can keep on my computer, trial version is a 4 time only...
the software is not free, it requires a paid licence which expires every x amount of weeks, to force u onto the latest version
I remarked the power transistor is grounded to the chassis with an extra lenght of wires bolted through one of the two bolt holes. Would it affect its operation??
I have another resistor pack laying around. I will try it shortly. My mechanic removed the whole wiring harness of the car and found nothing, no pinched wires, no fried wires...The board inside the ECU is not burned or doesn't smell funny. He bypassed the turbo timer... We are stocked...we dont find nothing that looks like not working...I will try a OEM untuned ECU just to check what the idle looks like.
I know you said you tried 550cc injectors but have you tried another set of 440s? My first Pulsar has the exact same issue that you mention in your first post and after checking vacuum, changing plugs, replaced wires, tried another resistor pack, changing maf, tried another ecu it turned out to be a single injector failure. At the time I ended up upgrading to 560cc injectors to solve the problem but I still have the old injectors lying around, if you want to pay for shipping you can have them.
I tried the 550cc for a quick idle test and It idled really rich at 9:1... Retested the 444 and for a short moment, it idled around 14.7. It was during the night at my tuner's garage.
We said:'' lets go for a quick test around the block...'' then, read well and twice for understanding... I turned ON the lights and it returned to 22.4... turned off the light and got back to 14,7... turned ON my rad fan switch = 22.4... turned them OFF = 14.7!!!
Decided to give it a quick run without lights, boosted decently, felt like 80% of the performance I had before the glitch. AFR at WOT was 9:1...while before the glitch ran 11.5:1
We decided to remove the wiring harnesses (engine and electrical) and began the ''glorious'' journey of finding the culprit hidden underneat the looms and electric tape. We are in the thick of it right now... If nothing is found, I put on the 550cc and drive to my dyno guy during the night at jail-for-the-night pace. My wallet is asking me to sell a liver and carry on the diagnostic...I'm broken financially from a hidden problem that, for the moment, is at its fifth week of diagnostic.
I have to admit I NEVER HATED A CAR SOOOOO MUCH...
atomicGTIR, I might try your injectors, your sure they are functional, hein??
shipping quote to:
430 boul taschereau
Laprairie
J5R 1T9
Quebec, Canada
vend sa au plus criss ... un gtir c'est tout le temps briser !
MERCI de l'encouragement mais j'ai besoin qu'il fonctionne pour le vendre, tu comprends. Tu veux m'aider ??
Check voltage to the fuel pump.
Tends to drop over the ages.
Check maf voltage
Check det sensor
Do a check via the diagnostic port.
There is a procedure on the manual.The check engine light will flash according to the faults
If a sensor is gone,you can verify it in that way.
Found the problem. It was the connectors in the MAF plug that were corroded and loose. Strange because when we did the voltage range test and resistance test with the multimeter, it was within specs...
Now, the car runs fine and strong above 3500rpm, below, it runs rich like hell. Like 7.4:1...
The turbo is doing a hissing/spinning like noise because the too rich condition but doesn't produce any power. After 3500rpm, i runs strong like before the problem occured. I'm not pushing the car too much because im still afraid that it will break for any other matters. (damned GTI-R's...)
Might it be related to a tune proble? wasn't liek that before.... I will remove the negative pole on the battery to reset the ECU and hope the too rich condition will leave in the relearn.