There's no question I'm still a newbie when it comes to these engines. Lynx hooked me up with the Mighty Mods YouTube and then encouraged me to start working on it. I'm pleased with what I've accomplished.
First, remove all of the vacuum hoses just behind the valve cover - takes a bit of nerve because we all know how finicky our engine's performance is without proper vacuum - and how hard to diagnose it can be. But, you gotta go for it.
Following Lynx's advice, I removed the caps on the throttle body that are typically only used for adjusting the throttle bodies - something that doesn't need to be touched if everything is working well. I went to my local auto parts store only to find they didn't have 8 of the T-connectors I was looking for. However, I saw something that looked even better! Notice that big vacuum tube between throttle bodies 2 and 3 - that's from the PCV valve; initially I didn't do it right, but now I have it plugged into the vacuum header by reducing the hose size to fit.
They had several of these double T-connectors in the size I required. With the vacuum hose a slightly different length it fits perfectly onto the throttle bodies' two vacuum nipples. Cleaner fit than having to use two different connectors per throttle body - I didn't even know they made such a device.
Then create your header to tie all of the vacuum ports together. At the passenger side end, I used one of the caps from the throttle body to seal off the end T-connector. On Mighty Mod's they simply used hose to tie into the next throttle body (but they only tied in one vacuum nipple per throttle body).
Next it's time for some zip ties. I just happened to have some red ones. My vanity side coming out - is it too much bling?
Completed and tied into the blow off valve. I also have two lines exiting the vacuum tube header created and going off in different directions. One goes to my Stewart Warner Boost Gauge and the other to my Go Fast Bits electronic boost controller. I used five of these double T-connectors in this project. Initially I had tied the wastegate tube into this also, Lynx gently redirected me to connect that back to the intake plenum. So all is good.
Love the "header" looks super clean. Been running mine this way for a year with better BOV performance and a better responding boost gauge.
I'm still slightly confused about your EBC setup, do you have a closeup of that area?
Things connected to my vaccum collector: BOV, Boost Gauge, FPR.
I'm not able to remember where that big hose you plugged off goes to....
Ha! Funny because I just replace one of the OEM short tubes yesterday. It was mushy, bulgy and had a superficial cut. Also funny because I used RED air line hose. Waiting to see how it handles the heat before I do them all.
GTi-R, the best ugliest car I've EVER seen/driven. You can make it cool, you can make it fast but you CAN'T make it look pretty.
Nice setup. I found this off ofcthe SR20-Forum.com somewhere.
http://www.gspec.com/p-7456-nissan-pulsar-gtir-bov-adapter-kit.aspx
You have the right idea.
Wow, I thought I'd gone over Greg's site front to back. I don't recall ever seeing that. I'm going to ask him what the 90 degree bend pipe is for.
ewaldperformance.com
it looks like an adaptor pipe to convert an aftermarket valve to fir the stock location.
LOL id like to thanks Gspec for the schematic and im goping to go save my self $70 :D
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
G Spec doesn't sell them anymore, Greg just hasn't updated the site.
ewaldperformance.com
Here's how I have mine setup, using quick connects. The smaller 4mm nipples are hooked to my blow-off valve, and the bigger 5mm (previously used for PCV) are hooked together for now but will provide vaccuum for my avc-r map sensor once I have some time.
The quick connects are really amazing
[img]http://www.vizi0n.com/pulsar/mods/pulsar%20gtir%20-%20mod%20-%20quick%20connect%20bov%2002.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.vizi0n.com/pulsar/mods/pulsar%20gtir%20-%20mod%20-%20quick%20connect%20bov%2001.jpg[/img]
By the way, if you plug that PCV line, make sure your valve cover hose is hooked to your intake piping between MAF and turbo, or else it won't be good :) --- or vented to atmosphere
Also, out of curiosity, why would you remove the caps on the screws?
Vizi0n, I'd like to see more pics/have an explanation. That looks very clean. I removed the caps because they're a vacuum source. By tying it into the vacuum header, in my mind that ensures that there's no leaks/vacuum changes.
I thought the mighty mod's guys just plugged that line. Do you have pics of how you handled it?
Thanks,
Never enough time to learn everything, but I'm trying.
ewaldperformance.com
Oh nevermind about the caps, I've thought you meant the one over the adjusting screws, not the ones to adjust (actually measure) each throttle bodies' vacuum.
Well I'm using "pneumatic" hose couplings from eBay and some polywhatever hoses
Here's the shopping list:
- 8mm(OD) x 5mm(ID) PU Air Tubing Pipe Hose 5m Black color http://www.ebay.ca/itm/110834738102
- 8mm (OD) hose couplings for the bigger nipples http://www.ebay.ca/itm/160855824234
- 6mm(OD) x 4mm(ID) PU Air Tubing Pipe Hose 5m Black color http://www.ebay.ca/itm/120869672550
- 6mm (OD) hose couplings for the smaller nipples http://www.ebay.ca/itm/110936261206
- 6mm to 8mm adapter http://www.ebay.ca/itm/170894527618
- 8mm Y connector http://www.ebay.ca/itm/280920526465
- 6mm Y connector http://www.ebay.ca/itm/290743708402
You could use an 8mm to 6mm adapter to switch from one size to the other, and then use a 6mm or 8mm Y connector to link both set of hoses and to connect to your blow-off valve.
About the PCV (top left corner of your valve cover). Its the positive crankcase ventilation port. Basically, it lets crankcase oil vapors escape and burns them in the combustion chamber when your throttle bodies are under vacuum (PCV valve is closed under boost). If you plug that hose (which runs behind the fuel rain then splits into 4 hoses that connect to the bigger nipples on the runners) you will block all positive pressure from escaping your engine. That's why I suggest you run an open-air catch can, or recirculate the valve cover to the intake pipe between the MAF and turbo to suck those vapors back into the engine (but it will coat your piping with an oily film).
I'm using Steve Pudney's (GTIROC) PCV plug which replaces the OE PCV valve, and an open to air catch can
[img]http://www.vizi0n.com/pulsar/engine_bay/pulsar%20gtir%20-%20engine%20bay%20-%202012-08-24%20-%20synapse%20recirc.jpg[/img]
Nice bov. Just installed mine. Which setting is working best for you?
I've installed it using only 1 port at first then switched to 2 ports. I *think* it was opening faster with only one port but I can't tell for sure. I'll do some more tests once I install my quick connects on the valve too. Thats how I found out about those couplings, Synapse sells a quick connect kit (which is obviously more expensive than buying the stuff on eBay)
Thank you. I was sure this was what I saw on the mightymod video, but I'll be correcting that very quickly!
ewaldperformance.com
Update, for quite some time now I've had the PCV valve routed back into the header system. I tried a couple of different things, including a catch can, but didn't seem to work well.
ewaldperformance.com
Polywhatever: invented in the late 50's by Dr. Whatshisface and originally devleoped for use on the 'thingy', the material was later shelved due to lack of interest. With the advent of automobile 'stuff' and the interweb 'whosits' the material has gained new life for use in 'thingamabobs' and 'whatchamacallits'.
GTi-R, the best ugliest car I've EVER seen/driven. You can make it cool, you can make it fast but you CAN'T make it look pretty.