Alignment Specs.

0 toe is all u really need.  unless u have camber bolts or an adjustable top hat, then set the camber to your preference, and max castor possible.

if you want a performance oriented alignment (not to be used on a daily unless u like replacing tires every other month)
front about 1.5-3 degs of camber
front toe out up to .5
front castor if you can adjust it with a ground control top hat or some other means, maximum possible

rear camber as close to 0
rear toe 0
ride height 10-15mm higher than front else get the car cornerweighted.

if they need a vehicle to punch into the machine use an nx2000, its what i use.  

Thought I would throw my two cents in about performance alignments. Nicks comments on regular alignments are all you need (although I think factory is 0.5- toe in front for stability/extra understeer)

Here are my settings - I am a design dork so I have a tendency to want to lay everything out in some sort of document.

I run with 0.5- toe out in the back which can make the car unstable if you are not used to it. It helps counteract under steer though and on the track with proper tires/suspension it makes a big difference. I keep the front toe at 0 which is a compromise from the factory toe in and quick turning of toe out.

Here are the stock specs:

Front
Camber: -0°40' a 0°50'
Caster: 0°30' a 2°00'
Toe-in total: 0°06' a 0°18'

Rear
Camber: -0°55' a 0°35'
Toe-in total: -0°06' a 0°18'

Kay thanks Nick and Atomic, modform i'll keep those specs in a safe place when i set the car up for auto-x, hopefully next year.

modforms alignment is probably more for someone quite experienced with toe out in the rear

toe out in the front will give u the front turn in with a slightly more stable rear, but won't help with understeer as much as modform's alignment.  it'll be improved over stock, but again not as nice as modforms.  

i can honestly say im not good enough of a driver to handle the twitchy rear, i sorta like a bit of understeer.  but thats personal preference.