I use a HKS SSQV also. although the turboxs RFL is good. Doesn't sound like much but sounds mean. instead of the chirp it sounds like a bunch of air being let out of a mircophone. BAd example but check out youtube for ones you like the sound of. Or are you going for quality instead of sound? HKS SSQV is still up there for me!
i definatly want quality, my brother has the HKS SSQV on his escort, and i like the sound of it, and i am pretty sure it being an hks, the quality is there. There are turbosmart ones, and they sound alright but they seem kinda pricy... I'm pretty sure my buddy has one on his srt-4, and it sounds like a whip..
I run an old school HKS ssqv and I love the sound of it, especially at 1 bar! it either purrs with low pressure or wooooosh hard when lot of pressure is released. I couldn't be happier with the function and sound of it.
have the ssqv on my pulsar, LOVE the whoose with the high pitches, sounds a lot like a wrc car only not poping all the time like they are through rough corner. The BOV's on my A6 2.7TT are considered "Bypass" valves, they are plumbed right back into the low pressure intake side and as such, don't make the noise. Miss that.
recirc'd, car runs fine with it. arc intercooler, 1.1bar, mines ecu, 3inch am perf downpipe, test pipe, fujitsubo legalis r exhaust, greddy profec b boost controller. it's meter'd air, of course it'll run vented toair, but it doesn't run a slight momentary rich condition for the missing air
my ssqv is not recirc'd and I don't notice anything different than the stock one that was recirc'd.
I took the pipe off the stock one and ran around with it dumping to the atmosphere and it made the car run rich. The ssqv doesn't cause any problems not being recirc'd.
I don't know what brand is on mine. It's a recirc, I couldn't find any ID on it. I'm going to run without one again. Eliminates a few possible boost leak locations.
__________________
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
I don't know what brand is on mine. It's a recirc, I couldn't find any ID on it. I'm going to run without one again. Eliminates a few possible boost leak locations.
any pics of it? I have an HKS SSQV.. Turbosmart makes one specifically for the gti-r, adaptor etc
i had a turbosmart on for 2 years very good bit off kit but to loud so i got a hks bov and its sweet i love it here is a pic off the turbosmart supersonic that i had
if anybody is running an aftermarket bov, putting together your own bov line that utilizes all 4 throttlebodies instead of the stock bov line (stick a screw in there to plug it) greatly helps reduce compressor surge. I just followed the mighty mods/turbosmart instructions for making the line out of 3 t pieces and a length of vacuum hose. Now the bov vents pressure at even the slightest boost reading. No more compressor surge, even on the highway and letting the throttle out really slowly.
Worth the $5 in parts and the 20 minutes to make/install for sure!
when buying the HKS SSQV BOV, should I also get an adapter of some sort ? the BOV itself doesnt look like a hose can be installed on it. doesnt anyone have a part # for the flange. Also, what is a good place to get the T adapters/vacuum hoses ?
when buying the HKS SSQV BOV, should I also get an adapter of some sort ? the BOV itself doesnt look like a hose can be installed on it. doesnt anyone have a part # for the flange. Also, what is a good place to get the T adapters/vacuum hoses ?
you'll need an adapter. I use one that goes in the end of the stock bov hose.
EDIT: did the 4>1 hookup and finally it works perfect. Yet to recirc but the 29mm blow off valve recirculation adapter arrived and job will be done soon.
Modification were done to the bov as can be seen in my gallery image comments.
If doing mine again, i'd simply attach the bov to the end of a hose on the plenum vs. getting a T-fitting. My existing bov likely was ok, but for a poor vac signal.
See comments and illustrations in: http://www.canadagtir.com/gallery/user/91gtirgrey/gtir-engine-bay-and-fmic
when buying the HKS SSQV BOV, should I also get an adapter of some sort ? the BOV itself doesnt look like a hose can be installed on it. doesnt anyone have a part # for the flange. Also, what is a good place to get the T adapters/vacuum hoses ?
you'll need an adapter. I use one that goes in the end of the stock bov hose.
you need the bov, the c clip, and the o ring that seals the unit as well as the adapter.
so is 1 3/8" the correct size flange for the hose ? also, does the flange come with the O ring or does it come with the BOV ? or should it be bought separately ? what is the C Clip for ? Sorry about the stupid questions....
if you take your stock valve off, you can measure the outside diameter of the part that sticks inside the hose. If you buy your ssqv brand new, I'm pretty sure that the c clip and o ring come with it! I bought mine second hand and the owner was keeping his c clip and o ring to go along with his new synapse bov, so I had to source the o ring and c clip online. they didn't cost too much. $7 for o ring and $10 for c clip. Hardest part was mounting the bov in the adapter! the c clip is really strong.
Mount the bov first, then stick the adapter (with bov installed on it) into the big air hose. Then tighten the gear clamp to secure everything. Hook up the vacuum line and voila!
Ok so the adapter is for connecting a hose to recirculate the bov back to the intake so you don't run rich, correct? The BOV itself bolts right up to the stock location on the motor?
Funny my stock re-circ valve is disconnected from the intake (probably because a K&N intake was installed) and just plugged up. Probably gives me compressor surge but being this is the first turbo car I've owned I'm not sure what that is like. Turbo flutters when I shift.
__________________
Only Chuck Norris can own a GTi-R. The GTi-R owns everybody else.
Flutter is compressor surge. Not a very good sound.
I just took off my bov, and went back to stock since it runs so much better. On the stock unit I hooked up the 4-1 line and it seems like boost comes on much stronger than the way it was with the single factory line.
Question for everyone with a aftermarket bov. Is it open at idle? Mine was, and if it wasn't for that I would have probably kept it on. The car runs really rich at idle, which stinks, and now that winter is here it will be idling on the cold mornings. I had a forge recirc/atmosphere one.
Where does the stock re-circ hose mount to the intake? I might just stick with the stock unit and run the 4 vac lines. Would need to hook it back up to the intake though I would imagine. Other option would be vent to atmosphere but with the stock unit it seems to be agreed upon that the car runs rich. Stock to atmosphere would be better than no ventilation at all which is where I seem to be at now but would prefer to hook it all back up properly.
__________________
Only Chuck Norris can own a GTi-R. The GTi-R owns everybody else.
Is your k&n intake the whole intake right up to the turbo? If it is there's probably nowhere for a recirculation hose to run unless you get a shop to do some metal work?
The stock recirc hose plumbs back into the air intake system just in front of the turbo compressor inlet. It's well after the air cleaner and MAF.
The snakey hose from the recirc valve joins onto the base of the connection from the air cleaner to the turbo inlet. There is an aprox 30 mm blow off valve exhaust reflow inlet near the turbo compressor inlet. It is molded as part of the turbo inlet hose to the compressor at an acute angle at the base of the hose. It's dark down there and tight to see and a photo might be tough last time i looked.
In my gtir engine bay, where the blow off valve is open to the atmosphere, the recirc hose is now removed; the bov exhaust air inlet, at the base of the long recirc hose, is now capped with a plug and clamped with the stock nissan clamp.
I plan to, at some point, attach the new greddy hype-rz bov i now use, [without any stock recirc valve], directly to the intake manifold via a short adapter, [vs. to the T-fitting as now].
My reason for the bov to be directly mounted on the intake manifold would be to be as close to the start of the stacked up "whoowhoowhoowhoo" wavefront pulse as possible and prevent damage to the turbo from any pulses from being at the greatest distance.
I suspect on occasion the over-rich condition [likely made worse in mine by a possibly bad O2 sensor] can cause a lick of flame to flash out the exhaust. ie. usually an upshift and slow rev roll-off at relatively low rpms. Cool race car effect maybe but likely carbon up or poor mileage and 'heaty' in certain circumstance.
Anyway, i figure most of the problem to do with the compressor surge i had was a poor vac source. Plug up the stock vac source and use the 4>1 and likely all's well.
Flutter is compressor surge. Not a very good sound.
I just took off my bov, and went back to stock since it runs so much better. On the stock unit I hooked up the 4-1 line and it seems like boost comes on much stronger than the way it was with the single factory line.
Question for everyone with a aftermarket bov. Is it open at idle? Mine was, and if it wasn't for that I would have probably kept it on. The car runs really rich at idle, which stinks, and now that winter is here it will be idling on the cold mornings. I had a forge recirc/atmosphere one.
mine was on occasions like a hyena before the 4>1 vac line; after the first time the bov really worked as it should, i thought i had broken something like a clamp slipped off. lol: the air blast discharge was so quick and sharp in comparison!
My greddy type rz wasn't open at idle, in fact i think it was way to stiff and I removed one of the dual springs as detailed in one of my gallery photo comments.
The spring tension could be dialed down harder with a setscrew for better sealing on that design and make for bov actuation at a higher pressure. The strength of the spring also can control the amount of time bov is open.
Where the bov knockoffs often cheap out in the constuction is at the seats and valve angle cuts or diaphragms or metal materials used. Most work ok. One bad report on the net of a bov knockoff copy having rusted after the engine bay was put away wet and the car sitting wet in a closed damp garage all winter.
No problem with my own type rz bov leaking so far. Rather, the reverse in my case prior to the 4>1 vac line mod.
i have the turbosmart supersonic with the gtir vacuum kit. ill hear something at high boost for a day or two but then i wont hear much. its like the bov stops working.every things installed right just like the turbosmart cd tells me to. i have it installed on the original rubber hose that comes off the throttle body any suggestion
can you guys post pics of your bov's to show your setup and a brief description so i can get this right cause these guys here in quebec arent a big help
i had a turbosmart on for 2 years very good bit off kit but to loud so i got a hks bov and its sweet i love it here is a pic off the turbosmart supersonic that i had
how did u have it adjusted hard, soft or medium..... i had it on everything and nothing special i still hear the turbo flutter
hks ssqv
BOTTLES ARE FOR BABIES.. REAL MEN GET BLOWN
I use a HKS SSQV also. although the turboxs RFL is good. Doesn't sound like much but sounds mean. instead of the chirp it sounds like a bunch of air being let out of a mircophone. BAd example but check out youtube for ones you like the sound of. Or are you going for quality instead of sound? HKS SSQV is still up there for me!
RNN14
or get a TIAL one that sounds like a whip! a bit pricey though.
RNN14
i definatly want quality, my brother has the HKS SSQV on his escort, and i like the sound of it, and i am pretty sure it being an hks, the quality is there. There are turbosmart ones, and they sound alright but they seem kinda pricy... I'm pretty sure my buddy has one on his srt-4, and it sounds like a whip..
I run an old school HKS ssqv and I love the sound of it, especially at 1 bar! it either purrs with low pressure or wooooosh hard when lot of pressure is released. I couldn't be happier with the function and sound of it.
have the ssqv on my pulsar, LOVE the whoose with the high pitches, sounds a lot like a wrc car only not poping all the time like they are through rough corner. The BOV's on my A6 2.7TT are considered "Bypass" valves, they are plumbed right back into the low pressure intake side and as such, don't make the noise. Miss that.
Sadly. Sold my Pulsar
i've got a sheepdog prof recirc
are you guys all re circulating these bov's or venting to atmosphere?
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
recirc'd, car runs fine with it. arc intercooler, 1.1bar, mines ecu, 3inch am perf downpipe, test pipe, fujitsubo legalis r exhaust, greddy profec b boost controller. it's meter'd air, of course it'll run vented toair, but it doesn't run a slight momentary rich condition for the missing air
my ssqv is not recirc'd and I don't notice anything different than the stock one that was recirc'd.
I took the pipe off the stock one and ran around with it dumping to the atmosphere and it made the car run rich. The ssqv doesn't cause any problems not being recirc'd.
RNN14
I don't know what brand is on mine. It's a recirc, I couldn't find any ID on it. I'm going to run without one again. Eliminates a few possible boost leak locations.
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
I don't know what brand is on mine. It's a recirc, I couldn't find any ID on it. I'm going to run without one again. Eliminates a few possible boost leak locations.
any pics of it? I have an HKS SSQV.. Turbosmart makes one specifically for the gti-r, adaptor etc
i had a turbosmart on for 2 years very good bit off kit but to loud so i got a hks bov and its sweet i love it here is a pic off the turbosmart supersonic that i had

the green dragon
i've had my hks ssqv for years , definately a good bov
if anybody is running an aftermarket bov, putting together your own bov line that utilizes all 4 throttlebodies instead of the stock bov line (stick a screw in there to plug it) greatly helps reduce compressor surge. I just followed the mighty mods/turbosmart instructions for making the line out of 3 t pieces and a length of vacuum hose. Now the bov vents pressure at even the slightest boost reading. No more compressor surge, even on the highway and letting the throttle out really slowly.
Worth the $5 in parts and the 20 minutes to make/install for sure!
RNN14
when buying the HKS SSQV BOV, should I also get an adapter of some sort ? the BOV itself doesnt look like a hose can be installed on it. doesnt anyone have a part # for the flange. Also, what is a good place to get the T adapters/vacuum hoses ?
does blitz make a bov?? how are they??
when buying the HKS SSQV BOV, should I also get an adapter of some sort ? the BOV itself doesnt look like a hose can be installed on it. doesnt anyone have a part # for the flange. Also, what is a good place to get the T adapters/vacuum hoses ?
you'll need an adapter. I use one that goes in the end of the stock bov hose.
it looks like this http://www.streetunit.com/Universal_Adaptor_For_HKS_SSQV_Blow_Off_Valve_p/asm-int-405.htm.
you need the bov, the c clip, and the o ring that seals the unit as well as the adapter.
RNN14
here are pictures for reference to the way mightymods have their line setup - which ports to use:
http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/2153/bovsetup.jpg
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/5851/ports1.jpg
RNN14
GReddy type RZ BOV
BOV is open to atmosphere now but will be re-circ'd . [because of noise, A/F ratio etc.]
http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/245-product-announcement-greddy-type-rz-blow-off-valve.html
mightymods 4>1 hookup pending along with re-circ.
EDIT: did the 4>1 hookup and finally it works perfect. Yet to recirc but the 29mm blow off valve recirculation adapter arrived and job will be done soon.
Modification were done to the bov as can be seen in my gallery image comments.
If doing mine again, i'd simply attach the bov to the end of a hose on the plenum vs. getting a T-fitting. My existing bov likely was ok, but for a poor vac signal.
See comments and illustrations in: http://www.canadagtir.com/gallery/user/91gtirgrey/gtir-engine-bay-and-fmic
Noticed anything "funny" with the exchange rates and parts prices lately:
New Scarier Insider Information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPg4qTNTP-E
Save Real Money for your Nissan Pulsar Gtir Upgrades!
http://www.canadagtir.com/gallery/user/91gtirgrey/wont-last-long-buy-physical-silver-now
***** "May you live in interesting times."
when buying the HKS SSQV BOV, should I also get an adapter of some sort ? the BOV itself doesnt look like a hose can be installed on it. doesnt anyone have a part # for the flange. Also, what is a good place to get the T adapters/vacuum hoses ?
you'll need an adapter. I use one that goes in the end of the stock bov hose.
it looks like this http://www.streetunit.com/Universal_Adaptor_For_HKS_SSQV_Blow_Off_Valve_p/asm-int-405.htm.
you need the bov, the c clip, and the o ring that seals the unit as well as the adapter.
so is 1 3/8" the correct size flange for the hose ? also, does the flange come with the O ring or does it come with the BOV ? or should it be bought separately ? what is the C Clip for ? Sorry about the stupid questions....
if you take your stock valve off, you can measure the outside diameter of the part that sticks inside the hose. If you buy your ssqv brand new, I'm pretty sure that the c clip and o ring come with it! I bought mine second hand and the owner was keeping his c clip and o ring to go along with his new synapse bov, so I had to source the o ring and c clip online. they didn't cost too much. $7 for o ring and $10 for c clip. Hardest part was mounting the bov in the adapter! the c clip is really strong.
Mount the bov first, then stick the adapter (with bov installed on it) into the big air hose. Then tighten the gear clamp to secure everything. Hook up the vacuum line and voila!
RNN14
Ok so the adapter is for connecting a hose to recirculate the bov back to the intake so you don't run rich, correct? The BOV itself bolts right up to the stock location on the motor?
Funny my stock re-circ valve is disconnected from the intake (probably because a K&N intake was installed) and just plugged up. Probably gives me compressor surge but being this is the first turbo car I've owned I'm not sure what that is like. Turbo flutters when I shift.
Only Chuck Norris can own a GTi-R. The GTi-R owns everybody else.
Flutter is compressor surge. Not a very good sound.
I just took off my bov, and went back to stock since it runs so much better. On the stock unit I hooked up the 4-1 line and it seems like boost comes on much stronger than the way it was with the single factory line.
Question for everyone with a aftermarket bov. Is it open at idle? Mine was, and if it wasn't for that I would have probably kept it on. The car runs really rich at idle, which stinks, and now that winter is here it will be idling on the cold mornings. I had a forge recirc/atmosphere one.
Where does the stock re-circ hose mount to the intake? I might just stick with the stock unit and run the 4 vac lines. Would need to hook it back up to the intake though I would imagine. Other option would be vent to atmosphere but with the stock unit it seems to be agreed upon that the car runs rich. Stock to atmosphere would be better than no ventilation at all which is where I seem to be at now but would prefer to hook it all back up properly.
Only Chuck Norris can own a GTi-R. The GTi-R owns everybody else.
I didn't see where it mounted to the intake.
Is your k&n intake the whole intake right up to the turbo? If it is there's probably nowhere for a recirculation hose to run unless you get a shop to do some metal work?
Can you post a pic of your engine bay?
The stock recirc hose plumbs back into the air intake system just in front of the turbo compressor inlet. It's well after the air cleaner and MAF.
The snakey hose from the recirc valve joins onto the base of the connection from the air cleaner to the turbo inlet. There is an aprox 30 mm blow off valve exhaust reflow inlet near the turbo compressor inlet. It is molded as part of the turbo inlet hose to the compressor at an acute angle at the base of the hose. It's dark down there and tight to see and a photo might be tough last time i looked.
In my gtir engine bay, where the blow off valve is open to the atmosphere, the recirc hose is now removed; the bov exhaust air inlet, at the base of the long recirc hose, is now capped with a plug and clamped with the stock nissan clamp.
I plan to, at some point, attach the new greddy hype-rz bov i now use, [without any stock recirc valve], directly to the intake manifold via a short adapter, [vs. to the T-fitting as now].
My reason for the bov to be directly mounted on the intake manifold would be to be as close to the start of the stacked up "whoowhoowhoowhoo" wavefront pulse as possible and prevent damage to the turbo from any pulses from being at the greatest distance.
I suspect on occasion the over-rich condition [likely made worse in mine by a possibly bad O2 sensor] can cause a lick of flame to flash out the exhaust. ie. usually an upshift and slow rev roll-off at relatively low rpms. Cool race car effect maybe but likely carbon up or poor mileage and 'heaty' in certain circumstance.
Anyway, i figure most of the problem to do with the compressor surge i had was a poor vac source. Plug up the stock vac source and use the 4>1 and likely all's well.
Noticed anything "funny" with the exchange rates and parts prices lately:
New Scarier Insider Information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPg4qTNTP-E
Save Real Money for your Nissan Pulsar Gtir Upgrades!
http://www.canadagtir.com/gallery/user/91gtirgrey/wont-last-long-buy-physical-silver-now
***** "May you live in interesting times."
Flutter is compressor surge. Not a very good sound.
I just took off my bov, and went back to stock since it runs so much better. On the stock unit I hooked up the 4-1 line and it seems like boost comes on much stronger than the way it was with the single factory line.
Question for everyone with a aftermarket bov. Is it open at idle? Mine was, and if it wasn't for that I would have probably kept it on. The car runs really rich at idle, which stinks, and now that winter is here it will be idling on the cold mornings. I had a forge recirc/atmosphere one.
mine was on occasions like a hyena before the 4>1 vac line; after the first time the bov really worked as it should, i thought i had broken something like a clamp slipped off. lol: the air blast discharge was so quick and sharp in comparison!
My greddy type rz wasn't open at idle, in fact i think it was way to stiff and I removed one of the dual springs as detailed in one of my gallery photo comments.
The spring tension could be dialed down harder with a setscrew for better sealing on that design and make for bov actuation at a higher pressure. The strength of the spring also can control the amount of time bov is open.
Where the bov knockoffs often cheap out in the constuction is at the seats and valve angle cuts or diaphragms or metal materials used. Most work ok. One bad report on the net of a bov knockoff copy having rusted after the engine bay was put away wet and the car sitting wet in a closed damp garage all winter.
No problem with my own type rz bov leaking so far. Rather, the reverse in my case prior to the 4>1 vac line mod.
Noticed anything "funny" with the exchange rates and parts prices lately:
New Scarier Insider Information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPg4qTNTP-E
Save Real Money for your Nissan Pulsar Gtir Upgrades!
http://www.canadagtir.com/gallery/user/91gtirgrey/wont-last-long-buy-physical-silver-now
***** "May you live in interesting times."
I use a blitz. it was a lil hard to tune but works good
i have the turbosmart supersonic with the gtir vacuum kit. ill hear something at high boost for a day or two but then i wont hear much. its like the bov stops working.every things installed right just like the turbosmart cd tells me to. i have it installed on the original rubber hose that comes off the throttle body any suggestion
I got the HKS SSQV3 and ran the 4 vac lines from the TB's. Pretty idiot proof since there is no adjusting it. Works well.
Only Chuck Norris can own a GTi-R. The GTi-R owns everybody else.
is it welded on or you put it on the original hose
Original hose but you have to have the right adaptor flange. As stated earlier, beware the snapring from hell.
Only Chuck Norris can own a GTi-R. The GTi-R owns everybody else.
can you guys post pics of your bov's to show your setup and a brief description so i can get this right cause these guys here in quebec arent a big help
This is my GReddy Type RS with 4 vac line setup. I'm re-using the stock 34mm hose and also using 34mm GReddy adapter on the bov.
Refresh if you don't see pics below...

how did u have it adjusted hard, soft or medium..... i had it on everything and nothing special i still hear the turbo flutter
i had a turbosmart on for 2 years very good bit off kit but to loud so i got a hks bov and its sweet i love it here is a pic off the turbosmart supersonic that i had

how did u have it adjusted hard, soft or medium..... i had it on everything and nothing special i still hear the turbo flutter