Help

There's a squirrel in your exhaust pipe

No but seriously, this seems like a kind of different version of a problem that lots of guys have been having, including me. Could be maf, plugs, wires, cap n rotor. mine was a combo of all of that, and the injector for #1 piston wasnt set in right, those little clips on them just dont do the job. mine bogged hard with this problem, i couldnt even keep up with traffic sometimes.

check for boost leaks. double check and make sure all of your air flow joints are tight and that no air or boost can escape.

Mine didn't rev past 2k and would hunt/barely run on idle and it turned out to be a coupler had blown off so the engine wasn't getting a reading from the afm, or something similar.

sounds very much like my problem...CHECK YOUR INJECTORS, happens lots i used zip ties to insure they wouldn come off again...i know ghetto but noone see it unless your runnin a front mount

I've been asking a bunch of friends and people at multiple shops and stuff and they all giving me different responses of what the problem could be. And no one at any shops want to touch my car at all. Are there service manuals that I can download online that could be useful for me so that my friend and I could use to check on my car with. Thanks for your guys responses it all helps

www.gtirworkshopmanual.com

1. get a consult cable from ecutalk
2. check the maf ground voltage, if its not within spec reground it, lots of articles online on how to do this. check sr20-forum
3. check fuel filter
4. replace fuel filter
5. check fuel pump
6. check spark plugs
7. check cap n rotor
8. check timing with timing light
9. replace cap n rotor
10. replace spark plugs
11. check injectors
12. test another gti-r maf
13. replace fuel pump

Nick has that last post saved to a text file o his desk top and when ever this issue comes up:
copy and past :)

I agree with the above.. all of those things cause your issue... if you can find a shop with a smoke tester it will make fining any boost vacuum leaks a lot easier. PS any 90's ford fuel filter for V8 powered vehicles should fit flow better than stock.. and is lot cheaper.

I changed the fuel filter and it still bogs I'm using one from a Infiniti G20. It's slightly bigger then the stock one. And I tried putting injector cleaner and gas line antifreeze in it too and ran 2 tanks of that and still bogs.

I guess youll just ignore the rest of the suggested steps

Theres a reason why i posted all those steps

No I'm not ignoring them. It was the shit that I did before you guys posted up what to do. Cause before all I got for a reply was "There's a squirrel in your exhaust pipe" so I thought you guys were just gonna make fun of me or something cause I'm new on this forum. I just got to find time to do the more time consuming stuff

Just having a little fun... I replied with a serious one right after it. All the things we've listed is all stuff we've all done to our cars because EVERY ONE of us have experienced similar problems with these cars.

EDIT**** Your cat could actually be clogged aswell, probably not with a squirrel though.. :D

i forgot to mention you should try pulling codes, u might have a shoddy knock sensor or o2 sensor as well. doubt its the cat as he's mentioned its intermittent

I don't have a cat I got a custom 3inch down pipe made with a straight pipe then a kakimoto racing exhaust to finish it off with. The guy that made my downpipe cut the exhaust temp sensor on the bottom of the car could that be messing stuff up too?

No it shouldnt matter at all, i have a de-cat also and i pulled my temp sensor, it hasn't had any affect on anything.

Does your exhaust temp light stay on all the time now too? Also I hooked up my boost gauge to each of the throttle bodies and my boost gauge shakes a lot. Do I need like a dampener or something in between to make it stop bouncing like that?

disconnect it from underneath the drivers seat, there should be a clip. it does nothing, its a direct connection between the sensor and the dash. it doesnt go newhere near the ecu.

again pull codes and check the 02 and knock are functioning, check your maf, reground the maf

stop wasting your time and do those things before u do anything else

Yeah I have a consult cable coming. How long does it usually take to get it?

I have one but its so shotty, horrible quality, hopefully you get a better one than mine. it wont even work at all when i plug it into my car. You dont need your boost gauge connected to your quad throttle bodies, put it inline right next to the wastegate actuator. I have mine set up way different than stock. The main line that runs from right under the intake mani is pointless basically, i think its just a breather of some sort, cuz i had mine hooked up to there but it didnt read any boost, i just plugged it off... i dont know if this is normal.. anyways that doesnt have anything to do with anything, nicks right though, dont worry about that until youve figured out whats actually wrong with the car..

Seems like there is a restrictor used in the MightyMods video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0-JieFM0MHA&feature=channel
Some neat stuff here in their series, including gtir's and others.

Turbosmart has instructions and downloads for gtir that might be useful for hooking up multiport system. Check:
http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?s=downloads
It features the dimentions of the multi connected hose for the bov which may have some bearing on pulses. Maybe same for the gauge. I couldn't locate any restrictor orifice size yet for vacuum/booost line signal.

[I just placed an order for the ecutalk too, they have new stock in as of 10th this month so I expect not too long a delivery time. Group buys of 5 or more get reduction.]

Each of the screws on the throttle bodies is a throttle body balance screw, they should be capped with a rubber plug else connect them all together with some vacuum hose.

Run the boost guage off the standard boost guage line that runs down the passenger side of the engine bay. it'll terminate where the fuse box for the horn is near the headlamp. you'll see the rubber hose, just T off anywhere along the line.

there is a factory restrictor in one of the hoses coming off the intake manifold which connects to the hose metal pipe on the top right corner of the top mount. This bleeds off about .2 bar, so if you're only hitting .5 bar of boost, you're missing the restrictor hose.

http://www.gtiroz.net/gallery/diagrams/abe?full=1

http://www.gtiroz.net/albums/diagrams/aac.jpg

hey nick, can you elaborate on why you need to cap the screws underneath the throttle bodies off? There is vaccuum ports, and then there is also those screws. i have the ports capped off (or else you have 4 big leaks), but why do you have to cap the screw ports as well? are they some sort of bleed valve type thing that bleeds off a certain amount of air so that the air going into each throttle body is equal? if they are, don't you want to leave them how they are? thanks.

not sure, but in fast there's part numbers for caps on the ports and the screws.

16267-D1710 part code 16599R
and 16599-W7000 part code 16298F

i guess you could run without them

Ah haven't had time to work on the car yet cause of school and everything and still waiting on the consult cable

hopefully yours works.

Got my cable tested it and got no faults the cable works though and its pretty accurate too in the speedo and stuff. But anyways the car fixed itself :S cause it hasn't bogged in 5 days.