240 km/h Writeup and Clock Mod.

nice clean install!!, looks OEM

I'm happy with it other than the lack of illumination. Like I said though I have to wire in a dimmer circuit in order for it to work because the GTIR connectors were never pinned for that circuit.

The only other thing that need cleaning up is that the clear plastic has three holes because i used the factory NX one (straight swap) and the holes for the odo reset, and clock set are in different locations. If I get a spare GTIR cluster I will use the plastic from it and then I can drill one clean hole and it will really look factory.

Also on the to do list is a NX speedo conversion. The gauge face matches the RPM one and goes to 240! Why the GTIR has a 180 speedo is beyond me. The only thing about the swap is, I'll just be swapping the Face because the NX speedo is not bolt in like the rpm is. So i have to figure out how to make the GTIR speedo match the nx gauge face. I'm not sure if the little pontentiometer on the speedometer circuit board adjusts the rate at which it sweeps but i'm hoping it does.

for anyone thinking of doing this, just know that the NX gauge cluster will physically just bolt right in to the gtir dash, but the wireing is TOTALLY different. It wont even plug in, there are 4 plugs on the NX and 3 on the GTIR.

If anyone has a spare GTIR cluster I'm looking.

NICE! correct me if im wrong but arn't all JDM cars limited to 180? my subaru is the same way,,, its not jdm but very close lol

(wikipedia)

JDM cars were limited by a jishu-kisei (gentlemen's agreement) among manufacturers to 280 horsepower (PS) (276 hp) in 1988 and a top speed of 180 or 190 km/h since the late 1970s, both imposed by JAMA, mostly due to safety concerns and the latter due to concerns regarding bōsōzoku gangs.[1] The horsepower limit was lifted in 2004.[2] However, the speed limit of 180 or 190 km/h remains in effect, depending on the make and model of vehicle. Many JDM sports cars have speedometers that only go up to 180 km/h, even though the car would be capable of much higher speeds if not for the built-in limiter

update.  Enjoy:

But the question is: does it work as expected? And post a how-to! I won't change my Mine's 280 but it's still an interesting mod and knowing what resistor or mod you need to do in order to make the face fit with the actual speed

Frank

I have been running it for 6 months now.  It is accurate from 3 other pace cars, and 3 different gps units to 1-5 km/h over 0-130kph which is the same or better than my stock gauge with my wonky tire size.

There is an adjuster on the gauge that you can turn to set the rise rate of the gauge.  For this to read accurate it was simple.  I turned it all the way down and it was perfect.  Like it was meant to do that.

Write up is tough, because the gauge work is delicate, and a i didn't take any pics of the process.  I was too concentrated on finishing it and frustrated after ruining 2 gauge clusters.  I will share some tips though.

haha there's an adjuster!!! nice find

What's required for this mod:
First things first take out your GTIR cluster.  You will notice that there are three main plugs at the back.

This is a different arrangement than any other cluster of these physical dimensions AFAIK.  So at this point you are stuck using the GTIR cluster unless you want to rewire a new cluster in there.  It is possible, and very doable with lots of time and patience and a good soldering iron.

I really didn't want to tackle that project unless it meant digital dash in the gtir.....(maybe some other time)

Step 2 find yourself a cluster that goes to 240 km/h like the US/CAN ones.  The catch?  the faceplate must match the dimensions of the GTIR one.  See below, the spacing and size of the gauges are identical.  Some of them are spaced further apart and have a different face size even though the cluster as a whole is the same size as the GTIR one.

for example see these two gauge faces:

WRONG!!!^^^^ they are different and will require significant trimming to fit and also wont be supported by the cluster properly.

Once you have found the proper cluster you will want to make sure that it has a clock as well....if you want the clock mod that is.

The easiest part of this is installing the clock/rpm side of the cluster.  If you want you can just unscrew the one with the clock and screw it into the gtir cluster.  Direct swap.  It reads the same because the gauge mechanics and electronics are exactly the same for all clusters of the b13/n14 size.

The GTIR board also has provisions for the Clock to be installed here:

Just put a screw in the top left hole and into the clock, and one in the bottom right.  The cluster is already wired and powered for it as if they intended it to be included, but left it out for whatever reason.  Now you have to deal with the fact that the clock is not lit as there is no bulb.  Well what are you waiting for? put a bulb in there.  But wait, it still doesn't work....that is because the wiring harness has no pins for the bottom two slots in the middle connector.  This is where having a spare gauge harness comes in handy.  Steal two of the pins from another harness and add them to the connector in the spots for ACC and ILL.  Wire ACC to accessory power, and ILL to ground.  There is one more thing you have to do, and that is place a diode across the trace for the clock where it is marked.  Just solder it in, but watch the heat, too much and it will melt the plastic circuit board. Now you have a lit and working clock.

That is it for the RPM side unless you dont like the fact that USDM/CAN clusters come with white needles.  In that case pop off the needle and pop on the GTIR amber one.

******************************WARNING*********************************************
the gauges are VERY VERY delicate.  If you pull the needle off and press another one on you WILL break the gauge.  Ask me how I know....it's like a gauge graveyard over here.  Buy or make the thinnest set of needle nose pliers you can find.  Stick them under the gauge face and grasp the shaft of the gauge.  It helps if you unscrew the two screws on the face of the gauge. Hold the pliers in one hand and with the other pull the needle off while wiggling back and forth.  When it comes off, don't move, don't do anything.  With the hand that is holding the needle you just pulled off, set it down, and grab the new amber needle.  Replace it in the same orientation that the other one came off in.  Now you will have a gauge that is not damaged, and will require no adjustment to get accurate.  The fewer times you have to do this step the better for the health of your gauge.

PS if you do break it, you are in luck, all rpm gauges are the same, just go find another at the junkyard.  It will cost you money but, you CAN replace it.
*****************************WARNING***********************************************

to be continued...

ALSO these pictures don't size properly on this site, if it is cut off just rick click on the picture and open in new window to see the full thing.

Here is the Speedo side.  It is harder and requires cutting of the gauge.  Compare where the Odometer slots are.  To fix this you have to cut both clutsers.  There is also the problem that the two little screws that hold the gauge face on are spaced differently.

To fix this you have to cut both gauge faces and glue them together.  I used super glue.

If you are careful you can paste them together and it will not even be noticable

Then you must adjust the rise rate of the gauge to match your new gauge face.  Turn this little potentiometer all the way clockwise.

Then install.  Measure your accuracy with a GPS and record your KPH off for 3 different speeds.  If they are all off the same amount you have to adjust the needle.  If they are accurate at low speeds but reads low at high speeds turn the little screw down.

Finally you must drill a hole in the clear gauge cover to match where your clock set switch comes out.  I would do this at the end when you are ready to totally reassemble.

And that's it!  Enjoy 240 km/h without having to buy a conversion kit or any expensive dials.  And the best part is it looks very OEM nissan, because it is!

Excellent Post, well done!!

mph conversion option using the usdm dual cam 90-93 s13 cluster, done by keo    http://www.sr20-forum.com/720541-post115.html  

three more mph options s13 180 mph http://www.lsauto.com/products.asp  s13 single cam 115 mph speedo 92-94 j30 140mph speedo gauge