Synchros and brushes?

have you joined gtiroc or the modifiers club?

yeah I'm on both of them just like to try on here first. I've looked it up too on modifiers but it seems like it's gonna be an expensive bill and doesnt say where you can buy the parts at.

Its your clutch man. If your transmission is slipping that means that either you have no teeth on the gears, or a shaft is snapped in the trans.

Clicking when it goes into gear is expected with transmissions as old as ours. It probably does need new synchros but that's not causing the drive train slip.

The reason it slips easier in a higher gear is that the engine has more time to build boost and therefore make more power and the clutch is under the most load because of the gearing at the wheels.

ahh I guess I'm gonna start tearing apart my car tomorrow. Anyone know how high off the ground you need to get the car off to drop the motor I think my jacks only good too about 2 feet :(

ALOT higher. You need to be able to get the engine out on the jack unless you think you can slide it while it is on the ground.

If you have an engine puller it makes it easier.

I dropped mine out the bottom though. I had the bottom of the bumper about 3 feet off the ground.

Ahh okay I still can't decide to pull or drop the motor this is my first time trying to do this, so I'm pretty scared to mess things up

Its not as terrifying once you just dive into it. just make sure you note where every bolt comes out of, and thread them back in if you can.. i pulled it out the bottom, had it on a little dolly thing and needed the car probably 40 inches off the ground.

What are you guys thoughts on it do you think it's the clutch or what :S cause I just keep getting different answers from everyone I've talked to here. Some say I probably have a leaky gasket so it's leaking oil into the clutch making it slip then some say the synchros and brushes and a shop said it could be something to do with the hydraulics in my clutch master.

The synchros can NOT make your drive train slip. They can cause you to jump out of gear, but then you have to physically put the gear lever back into gear to continue. You clutch is slipping.

I'm having the same problem, although i think I have a leaking seal inside the bell housing causing my clutch to be oil contaminated.

I'll let you know what I find.

Do you smell your clutch burning?  the metal on metal sound could be your throw out bearing,,,, and if the clutch is slipping in 3rd-5th thats because theres more load on the motor....  so fingers crossed its your clutch,,,
I would do things in this order.. just mu opinion

1 drain trans fluid while filtering through a white  cotton t shirt  or similar...  looks for chunks of transmission stick your fingers in all the holes and feel for chunks stuck to the case.... look in through the inspection hole where the revers light sensor goes etc... Be careful with the retaining ring for the sensor.. you'll bust it.

well you can remove your trans as per what ever method you want....  Ive done it on jack stands  I removed the trans and T-case in one shot...  MISTAKE!!!

I would def try the "drop entire engine out the bottom on stands" method that others have done.... you can also separate the trans from the motor by undoing all but the drivers side mount and lowering it down,,, the tricky bolt is by the speed sensor,,, remove all mounting hardware for clearance accept the rear dog-bone there are two bolts that mount the drivers side of the T-case to a gusset... loosen but dont remove,,, these lets the T-case pivot down,,, the entire passenger side axel must be pulled out for the T-case and trans to split..
once you have all the bolts and all and axels pulled etc....push your clutch in and it should pop the trans aprt... lol you've got one try at this or you'll have to do it the hard-way

dunno that's not a complete write up but its what Ive done and my car runs and drives (for now)

I don't smell burning clutch at all cause I remember when my clutch was going the first time it smelt really really bad. Man seems like such a waste of trans fluid changed it not even a month ago :( heh but I guess I gotta start with that fist. Thanks for the write up cause more info the better even though there's other peoples write ups too online just more the merrier since that was from their experience and this is from yours.

Drain the fluid into a CLEAN container and cover it.... then put it back in when your done!....

ahh I'm having a hard time pulling out the Y bracket I'm trying to just pivot the motor with the driver side mount and I can't seem to get enough clearance for the Y bracket to come out. If I try lowering the trans side more the alternator and belt hits the engine bay ahh.

The first time its easier to just pull the entire engine. Trust me on this, I tried EVERYTHING to avoid pulling the engine and spent twice as long doing that then it took me to just pull the damn thing out.

OMG finally the trans is out I dicked around too much trying to take out the Y bracket and the speed sensor was a hard to get out too everything else was pretty straight forward. Still haven't got out the Y bracket yet kinda just hanging in there :p. Clutch is worn down to the plates with 1mm pads on each sides. Does anyone have the ACT 6 puck clutch cause that's what I'm leaning towards getting along with a light weight flywheel. Also is there any companys that sell engine mounts or should I just get the powerflex bushings. Thanks

Ahh I'm having a hard decision choicing a clutch. I'm going to get a light weight Fidanza flywheel. I'm stuck between either the ACT 6 puck sprung clutch or a ACT performance street disc. There's a ton of review on the 6 puck but not a whole lot on the street one. The 6 prung is rated to hold up to 576 ft/lb torque and the street holds up to 449 ft/lb (not like I'm gonna be close to either of those anyways). The street one is made of organic material. I really don't know what to get because I had bad experience with my 3 puck exedy stage 2 one and it's gone after a year of driving it. Which clutch would you guys think would last longer a full disc of a 6 puck? and I read that pucked clutchs is better for cooling made of better materials less chance of glazing better holding force but harsher engagements. This is my daily driver too so I want something street friendly and something that lasts long. Thanks

i dont have an answer for your question, but my os giken may also be an option http://www.canadagtir.com/forums/buy-and-sell/for-sale/fs-os-giken-super-single

Well this sucks my cv joint popped out when I was reinstalling everything just because a c clip snapped. Anyone know where I can get one or something that crosses over with the pulsars :S cause I went to nissan and it says it takes 4 weeks to get cause its special order from japan.... 4 weeks for a little c clip thats worth like $1 AHHHHH

Mike - depending on which one it is, it looks like different snap rings and cir-clips share many models of vehicle.

Look here:
http://nissan4u.com/parts/sunny/er_n14/1991_2/type_23/power_train/front_drive_shaft_ff_and_front_drive_shaft_repair_kit_ff/illus...
view the other illustration for the other side. Good luck!

double post

Wow thanks I tried looking on that site for a part number before but I couldn't find that illustration. The print out that Nissan showed me was slightly different then that so I didn't order the ring when I was there.

Got my car running 2 days ago seems like it runs great trying to break in the clutch now. Man is it ever tempting to just let her rip. And I don't know if this is a problem or not but my turbo is spooling really early and quick like spools up at 1.4k rpm before I started to boost at 2.5k rpm. Could this be because of the new clutch and lightweight flywheel set up? or just some vaccum/boost issue?

u owe me a ride with the new clutch

heh yeah definately I'll give you a ride next time I'm in Vancouver. But yeah do you know if that's a good thing that the turbos spoolingup so early or what :S I really don't know cause it just seems too good to be true to be building boost such low end. It spools pretty loud too it doesn't blow any smoke or anything.

well i would expect slightly earlier spool, but 1000rpms wow.   remember the os giken unit is like nearly 8-10kg's lighter than a stock setup.  thats a ton of weight.

rotational mass reduction makes a big difference; glad it seems to have improved boost response

That completely contradicts the fact that a heavy flywheel helps spool the turbo faster. The heavier the flywheel, the more load there is on the engine which generates very hot exhaust gases. This equals additional pressure in the turbine which in turn makes the turbo spool quicker.

The latter can also be attained by having longer gear ratio which also adds additional load on the engine and a similar effect is gained.

I just don't understand how a lighter flywheel makes the turbo spool faster.

p.s. I seriously recommend Maximum Boost by Corky Bell to each and everyone who really wants to understand all there is to know about turbochargers. It's an old book but the theory will never change and always apply.

A few good souls have posted it up on the web in .PDF format if you want to search for it.

i figure it is because the amount of gas passing through the turbo may be greater over a shorter time because the revs are picking up faster perhaps.

Corky Bell's book is great and i have one. He was behind the Buick GN if not mistaken. An HP book by Hugh McInnes TURBOCHARGERS is ancient but worth a read, lots of info on compressor maps and formulae for antique turbo's but the principles are the same as said.

Atomic GTiR is right. If the engine revs faster the turbo doesn't spool at a lower rpm than stock. Think about it, The turbo has less time to spool because the engine revs to higher rpm in less time. Plus less load on the engine means less air and less fuel meaning less energy for the turbo to spool.

ok, then if not so then what else could it be?; a greater momentum of the air charge as the engine positively displaces exhaust quicker with greater volumetric efficiency on intake hense more exhaust? On re-reading the entire thread closely i see you must be right and like atomic i can't see it either.
The only time i saw a turbo making boost earlier was where the guy welded and reshaped the inside of a stock turbo to divert and ramp the exhaust flow a bit differently to the impeller blades. If the turbo stayed on without a gasket change to slightly narrower size or nothing else i'm puzzled too.

Yeah I'm really not sure about it still it seems so bad for the turbo since its kicking in at sooo low rpms. I'm getting pretty wicked gas mileage though getting like 500kms per tank even when it's boosting everywhere but no more then 5 lbs of boost atm.

When you say your turbo "is spooling really early" do you mean to full boost, or just to positive pressure? Odd. Faster spool up = more exhaust exiting the cylinders earlier in the power band = more load on the vehicle.(generally and in layman's terms of course) Heavier oils in your tranny / trans case / diffs? Could it be that while the clutch / flywheel are wearing in they're somehow resisting rotation, making your engine work harder? Maybe your old slipping clutch is acting as a false baseline to compare your new boost-to-rpm ratio? Although I'm pretty sure my turbo doesn't spool to full boost until around 3200 rpm...

had you touched your distributor or anything else timing related? I am not sure if I'm correct but advanced timing will lead to increased fuel efficiency and early spooling, however it shouldn't lead to a max of 5 psi . . . .

when I say spooling early I mean I start building boost at 1.4k rpm then at 2k rpm I'm at 5psi then I reach my full boost of 15 psi at 3.5k ish rpm this is testing on 3rd gear. I only changed to the OS Giken clutch/flywheel that I got off of nick haven't done anything else besides that.

somethings happening since there are similar results reported in a different vehicle:
""The results are eye opening, with the lighter and smaller SPEC twin-disc clutch kit allowing the EVO's engine to rev faster and easier, hitting peak boost and making power sooner. Where the stock parts allow the EVO to reach 300 lb-ft of torque in about 5.2 seconds, the SPEC clutch hits that same amount in only 4.5 seconds. We measured almost a half-second difference from stock for the EVO to reach the 350whp mark, and once peak boost was reached, the SPEC clutch helped free up power all the way to the top.""
http://www.importtuner.com/tech/powerpages/impp_0911_2005_mitsubishi_lancer_evolution/dyno_run.html
graphs seem to show increase at top end mostly from lighter clutch

Making power sooner AT THE WHEELS yes, because of the lower rotational inertia of the rotating assembly. Just changing the flywheel and clutch does not change the engine crank hp.

that interesting, i wonder how they derived the graphs though marginal gains

it's not really a gain in hp from the motor, its freeing up hp that was lost to turning the heavier flywheel and clutch.  so it can be perceived as a gain in power as the driver will probably see gains in acceleration.

its all in wording, end of the day real life results is slightly quicker accel, easier rev matching, slightly more power available which otherwise would have been lost to turning the heavier clutch n flywheel.

everyone's in a pants about it, his car runs good, runs better, runs faster. be happy.

Put that way, my car behaves the same way. I can build 5psi by 2k and full boost (16psi) by 3.5k as well. My two GTIRs behave the same way.

Like Nick said, glad your car is running well now enjoy it for the summers are too short!