SUPER SHORT CLUTCH!

Some may recognize this pic from some time back.
My clutch pedal was sideways like this and squeaky when the clutch pedal bracket assy was borken and on the floor totally when it suddenly collapsed in a heap under my foot.
Assuming it's not broken spot welds at the firewall, or something different about the clutch itself, the adjustment for the pedal is the locknut that had the spec of green loctite at the lower left with the big brown stripe running along the screw.

If it's not fixed by that, i can't say what next to do. I can't think of what a pain that might become.

other thing to try is to thread the clutch master cylinder rod further into the yoke as well as the above step

adjust the pedal, if you're sitting in the car turn the rod clockwise to the right to lift the pedal up. i had trouble with my competition clutch, i adjusted the pedal and bled the clutch- i would bleed the slave cylinder again.

im kinda having the same problem right now but my symtoms are a bit different. My clutch pedal is harder to push down (almost as if something is seized). also my clutch catches very quickly and when i press the pedal, it makes a scratchy noise, but when its in gear or i release the pedal..it goes away. also my slave cylinder did leak on me once , but i re-bled it and it hasnt done it since. also i might add that i did recently do a motor/tranny swap and it didnt do this before . what could be wrong ?

^Your clutch fork is broken and is rubbing unevenly against the pivot point. It is a common problem with uprated clutch pressure plate.

Refresh this page if you don't see the picture below. This is what the fork looks like when it's busted, it's hard to tell from that picture but the center pivot point is broken. P.S. picture was borrowed from S3by's post.

...MY PIVOT IS NOT BROKEN THO...i had the guys at the shop inspect it...i wanted to make sure it was not broken before the new tranny went in...

wheres the clutch fork located ?

Beside the clutch spoon?

Sry...just couldn't resist.

The clutch master cylinder dosn't have to visually be leaking, to be leaking... If the cylinder bore gets scored or the "o" rings on the piston goes for a shit it will leak internally. In which case the pressureized fluid simply finds its way back into the reservoir. I have had this happen twice to me on another vehicle (it seems that fast harsh shifts are to blame for this)... :S Anyways the best way ti test for this is to unscrew the line and screw a plug in place (some automotive places sell them napa ect)... or you can make one by taking a tube nut new or used and braze/ weld the hole over. Then to test it simply get in the car and attempt to push the clutch pedal down. It should remain hard at the top! hold pressure on it for a minute or so to see it it does drop. But if the master is good it shouldn't drop at all!

True. This is the first adjustment for the clutch.