stumped....car broken! help

Hmmm, That's tricky, and sounds a little like the path my car may be headed in.... every once in a while when I start my R, it cranks forever until I add a touch of gas, then it fianlly starts up. Sometimes I even have to put the gas to the floor to get it to fire. Also, my (stock) exhaust sounds a little "poppy", almost like there's a little misfire every once in a while. A mechanic thought it was just my restrictive exhaust, but I'm not sure...

It sounds to me like your car doesn't want to idle, so maybe it's your throttle position sensor? I wish I could help you more, but if you do find out what's happening, please let me know!

Good luck.

try looking at your injectors, maybe not enough fuel getting in.... or turn the key until you hear the fuel pump kick in then crank it over... then again could be something to do with your idle...

Dirty or f'd up MAF?

Check Fuel pump delivery as well...

maybe a bad ground on the fuel injector relay... could be making good contact as the vibrations of the engine change...

Really just grasping at some of the more obvious gremlins...
my condolences though.

Misfire maybe. Check the plugs/wires.

Fuel filter cheap and always a good place to start!

so i went to a machanic i know and they spent the whole day looking over my car and luckily i dont have to pay, just a case of beer and hes happy! my ignition control module is gone, i have another one on the way! also my car is running insanely rich, like new spark plug put in and just sitting there and its black, o2 sensor or my maf is what i figure! timing shouldnt be off becuz its a metal chain. so hopefully once they put in the part and check the sensor and clean it, then it will run better! heres the thing tho, i wont drive my car till i have new brakes and rotors! i know where to find rotors but am stumped about the brake pads, front and back! thanks for the help

there is a good treat on here about break pad, just take the time to read it and it will help you. cheers. :)

ok so unfortunately my car died again! it bogged out this time and i towed it to the shop again and it started but the oil pressure is low! wuts up?

low oil pressure
1. bad oil pressure sensor.
2. bad oil pressure guage.
3. low oil level.
4. oil pump is going.
5. main bearings are going.

sadly the order of probabilities are reverse from nick's list... Usualy turn out to be mains or oil pump...

NOTAVW on this board had this happen to his gtir this summer and it was the main bearings.

best of luck, get that checked out asap.

i would check your compression on each of the cylinder's neways as a start before throwing money at it.

its really quite confusing me and my mechanic! the car runs but im sure if they were to take it out for a drive that it would bog out and they wouldnt get it started till it rested for a bit! weird, im hoping its only a sensor and nothing expensive...i just bought the car and its already doing this! so stupid, i love the car too so its hard to just let it go, i just hope it doesnt drain my pockets!!!!! I MISS MY CAR!!!! and its snowing here today...not fair

ok one more question! could this possibly have any connection to a fuel pump? is anything linked there with the low oil pressure, or a bad sensor??? another thing, one other person had a similar or same problem as me and they had the top block rebuilt becuz the holes were not large enough for the oil to drain down, so they had to be made larger and that fixed the problem! however im hoping that isnt the problem as its too expensive and too much work!!!!!!

Most probable cause for low oil pressure is worn crank bearing. If your car ran insanely rich for some time and you didn't change oil, then your engine is history.
I would suggest you to connect a pressure gauge to the fuel pressure line and see what happen. In any case, I would throw away the stock pump and replace by a new walbro unit.

well the oil temperature is low, the pressure is fine, there was a dent in the pan and it got hammered out so thats better! however the car started to bog when i got it back yesterday, my mechanic says its overfueling! and the oil changes are done every 3000 km and check at every fill up on gas, the only way for the car not to bog out is if i floor it when it does bog to use up the extra fuel, i dont like this at all! i have to dirve 20 km to work everyday half way outta the city and am worried im gonna stall and get stranded! would it have anything to do with the fuel pump???? i love my car, i dont want it to die!!!!

my intercooler is ontop of the engine as well, plus the temp in my city is at 0 and getting colder, so im curious to know if that would be the cause of the low oil temp as well!

I doubt it getting too much fuel. If anything, it is running lean. The only way it would be getting too much fuel was if the fuel pressur regulator was bas or if the maf wasn't working at all. Since the Regulator is not prone to failures, I would try another MAF first, but ulitmately, you'll have to change the fuel pump, I'm telling ya.

yes i agree with jardamuth. new pump, check for boost leaks, check the maf. possible locations for boost leak, 2 main intercooler pipes, 2 hoses on the bypass/recirc valve, all the hoses going from the intake manifold to the wastegate solenoid, 4 throttle body screws should have rubber caps on them, hose going to boost pressure sensor. you should be getting .5v from the maf at idle.

i was gonna say, low oil pressure is common with a dented oil pan, the oil pickup has a hard time on the gtir engine when the pan is even just slightly dented and it cause low oil pressure. I am having this problem and will be fixed on monday.

glad to see you found out one of your problems.

where do i get this fuel pump from? does it have to come from japan or is there another car that shares the same part? im desperate, i just got my car back and it seemed fine and it bogged out again and died so i left it for 10 mins then started it but only foot to the floor then it idled! heres the thing though, it only started bogging when i geared down and didnt do it any other time, i kept it outta the turbos as im scared the car is gonna die on me again! heres another question, how about leaks in the injectors? would that cause this problem or is the fuel pump my ultimate goal to work on right now? i dont wanna spend money on a part that isnt gonna help the problem! im sure you know where im coming from! thanks alot

the model is GSS341 255lph HP made by walbro. you can order or buy it mostly at any performance place.

http://www.canadagtir.com/forums/technical/engine-performance/changed-fuel-pump-problems-1-hour-after read that, we covered most of it, there is other treads also covering it. cheers.

turns out it is my control module again! this sucks, well at least now i know hopefully this time! gotta find the part and get it shipped here! they crossed referenced the module and got one but it wont do for the car as the part overheats and then it overfuels and is flooded! i have to let the part cool for like 5-10 moins then start it full throttle to use the extra gas! in one trip of 40km i used over 1/4 tank of fuel! car died 4 times but started again everytime, i managed to get it to my mechanics and left it there so they can get the right module and put it in! any ideas to wut module it is and where i can get it? i live in kamloops and am hoping there is something nearby like vancouver where i can get this part!

turns out that i found a place, maximum overdrive auto importers can ship the part in as they do not carry it! but they hopefully will get the right one! still stuck on the brakes tho, i got the item # for the brakes but they were too big! shitty deal and the numbers on my rotors are rusted off! arg

i got a prob like this but a bit different can you guys help, i ran my car the other nigth fine, came home and switched off
next day tried to start it a few times and nothin, tested the battery it was well charged checked for faulty wires didnt find anythin, checked fuses still nothin, tried a few hours later it swung and started turned the engine off then tried to start it again and it never started again.

help please, i just did an overhaul omn the engine like 4 months ago

well from all the troubles that i have had with my car, see if you can check for default codes with the ignition control module! that was the problem with mine but now mine is confusing again! O2 sensor was changed and the car jolted the entire time! f'd up! i have a repair manual coming from rocky mountain importers, possibly see if you can get info from them, they know quite a bit from wut i understand! my mechanics have been stumped with my car since its the only one here and the only one they have worked on! and bcuz everything is in japanese it doesn help! also try this site..... http://www.gtirworkshopmanual.com/

lool you guys are gonna laugh , sorted out my prob it seems that a rat actually tried to make my engine his home
that night, i guess cuzz he was cold and needed the heat i tried pushstarting it this morn then i just pulled it in the garage as soon as i popped the hood and tried tapping the starter motor as i thought it just might be stuck annd the little bugger ran out, found that he chewed the wire that connected to the starting motor, i reconnected that and i was good
lolololoolololoololool

now im having the same prob as you but this time my car was running heard a weird knockin in the engine then liike metal grinding then it stopped
now the engine wont turn over

oh that doesnt sound good at all! well i almost gave up on my car, apparently i need a new ignition distributor and then i runs like new considering all the new parts that have been put in now! new ignition control module, new MAF, all new spark plugs, doesnt run rich anymore, all sensors have been checked and are good, intercooler is good, timinging is good, everything is good except the car has a weak spark and sometimes it causes it to bog out and stall but if i wait a little while then i catch a good area on the distributor and it starts right back up again! its strange but makes sense considering all the things the guys went through on the car! it spent a good month at the shop so they pretty much know exactly whats up now! anyways anyone wanna buy the car? lol....only one problem and it runs like new, i gotta go back to school so i need the money now!

i got rear rotors from nissan, both of them for just under $200, if your still stuck on the rotors. the only thing is they wouldn't tell us where the rotors were being shipped from

im not putting anymore money into the car! there not that bad...just a lil shaky in the steering wheel the odd time! i tried to start it up today and it just bogged out! im sick of it cuz ive had problems since the beginning! sucks really considering i took out a loan to buy it and now im stuck! thanks for the info tho

ok im stuck once again.....maf replace....all sensors checked and good and clean...ignition control module replace(but may not b right one).....asked about distributors from different mechanics(they dont think thats the problem)....asked about fuel pump(sounds like a possibility to me but some mechanics arent sure about that one either).....i am desperate for help....i have half of kamloops helping me right now and my car is the only one here and no one has ever worked on one of these before....would nissan b able to scope it and tell me the problem or is that a waste of time and money? im short on cash so im literally desperate for help.....car still bogs and then stalls but if i leave it for 5-10 mins then it starts up just fine....(this is some of the problems with a bad fuel pump as well.....but still not sure)...i dont want to buy an expensive part which i have done twice now and still have that problem! please help

Ok lets start with the basics

1. Have you pulled fault codes, and if you got any what were they?

2. Are you 100% sure you have no boost leaks? It honestly sounds like a boost leak, causing you to run rich and bog and stall out(Potential locations, intercooler hoses, vacuum nipples on throttle bodies, the bypass valve, a few hoses that run from the intake manifold to actuator
3. Have you changed the fuel filter, plugs, cap/rotor, wires
4. try raising the idle up to 1200 with the idle screw
5. fuel pump, the walbro isn't that expensive, less than 150$

I'd also consider getting a product called the nissan consult, you can plug it into the consult port and log all your sensors and all your data to see what your sensors are doing.

Do you know what voltages you are getting on the MAF, the voltage on the ground wire on the MAF, 02 sensor, tps sensor, etc? You can do all that with the consult.

i dont know what anything is reading....i dont want to spend extra money right now...i just bought a manual so im gonna give that to the guys who are working on my car and see if they car figure anything out from that!

Then there's no point asking here is there if you're not going to to do it yourself. The consult is a great diagnostic tool, considering typically people pay anywhere from 50-80$ an hour from a shop. The consult will pay for itself in its first use. Just my opinion, i may sound like a dick but if people refuse to listen or don't do the very basic of checks, then thats not my problem.

Your bogging - stalling problem still sounds like the ICM (ignition control module) to me. Especially since it seems to run fine again once it's had a chance to cool done. I had the same symptoms once in my now departed Honda Civic. I was driving it from Winnipeg to Vancouver, got to Rocky Mountain House, AB, pulled into a gas station and filled it up, went to start it again and it wouldn't go. Tapped on the distributor, tried again and she fired up. Drove it for a block and it bogged and stalled again. Went and bought a new cap and rotor, installed it and she fired up again. Drove another 2 kms and she bogged and stalled again. Had a mechanic look at it on the side of the road and he said my spark wasn't consistent. He guessed ICM and said when they're on their way out they tend to give good (enough) spark until they heat up, then quit until they cool down. I replaced the ICM, fired it up and never had the same problem again.

You mentioned you already had it replaced? Is it giving consistent spark? Hope this helps.

Ty

hey i think you might b right....that was my very first guess right from the beginning. but im not much of a mechanic so i didnt really know....but the more and more i learn about the car the more im starting to think that it has the wrong module and the icm in the car cant handle the power of the engine so it heats up to quick and bogs out then it cools down for 5-10 mins and its fine for a bit...totally sounds like it...cuz i know im getting weak spark. now all i have to do is find a icm that fits the car and properly....any suggestions?

does anyone know what kind of icm the nissan pulsar takes? its a 1991...and from my understanding it is fairly unique to each and every nissan pulsar gtir.

i am sooo lost on why my car continuously breaks down! i have replaced the ignition control module 3 times and the last one lasted for 2 weeks and gave out when i boosted high! maf was replaced and all sensors checked! the car will miss miss miss and bog and then somethimes stall out! its a weird problem but all i want is for the car to run! any ideas? please help!!!! desperate

change ur plugs to a ngk bcr7es (ngk coppers heat range 7) and try that with a gap of .8mm gap should only be like 10$
if your car runs hot go up to the heat range 8's.

also have you pulled your engine codes? i'd buy this cable and datalog your car http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx
its only 64$ cdn with the usb cable.

Chrissy- If you haven't changed the fuel pump yet I would HIGHLY recommend it. I know it's another expense, but the original pumps are prone to failure, resulting in a bogging / hesitation above ~3500 rpms, especially once they've warmed up (about 5 mins into driving). The pump you're looking for is a Walbro GSS-341 high pressure 255 litre-per-hour (lph) pump. You can find them on Ebay for about $100 CAD + shipping. Do a search for "Walbro GSS341" or "Walbro GSS-341" and you should find a few options. Some of them are offered with "fit kits", but it's not a necessity. You can install them with some imagination and help from www.nissangtir.co.uk in the forums, there are how-to guides on changing the fuel pump (one by author "Jack Bauer" is great).

Now GO!! Change that fuel pump. If that doesn't fix your problems, sell your car and buy a bike! Just kidding.

Ty

a note on ICM cooling... you can goto a surplus place like princess auto and by a 12v cpu fan and heat sink,, they come in all sizes.. get some heat transfer goop and ek it fit/ work.. I've helped do this on a couple cars sould cost less than $10 out the door

My car started bucking and misfiring and running like crap - I replaced the plugs with the NGK platinum ones and also did the walbro fuel pump upgrade and all was fine after!

the thing is whenever i replace the ignition contol module, the car runs like a dream! and the fuel pump i believe they tested and they said it was good! the only codes on the ecu was about the icm. so its just driving me crazy cuz they keep putting the wrong module in, only cuz there isnt any proper ones from around here and they dont want to order one and have it b the wrong one and not b able to return it and get the money back! i might possibly b able to get it thru the skyline shop, im going to try on tuesday when they are open! but i honestly dont think its the fuel pump, and i took all the spark plugs out and they are all good, wires are fine, except one got a little water in it when i washed my engine! stupid move on my half but that cleared up with a hot day! distibutor has normal wear! its good and the rotor is fine and no play in the rotor! so those are the only other things i could think that would cause that problem! so im stuck on the icm again! and so is all the mechanics that hate my car cuz its there tooo often! but they dont understand wut the car is made of! lol but we all know, hence why we have them. thanks for your inputs, if you have any other suggestions then throw them my way, and if you still think its the fuel pump, explain it to me so i can explain it to my mechanic and see if that gets them any further! thanks alot everyone

http://nissan4u.com/parts/sunny/el_n14/1994_1/type_51/engine_electrical/ignition_system/

Order the part from feast auto parts@feastautoexport.com or local nissan dealer. Obviously no returns on jdm parts.
He'll take paypal and ship it from japan to your place within 2-3 weeks.

1990-1992

Coil ignition
2243353J20 MITSUBISHI
2243355S10 HANSHIN

Power transistor
2202053J10 HANSHIN
alternate: 2202053J20 HANSHIN
2202053J20 MITSUBUSHI

My R did this. It just started sputtering and died.

I replaced my fuel pump with a Walbro and started her up. Runs beauty now.

yaya funny story....the mechanic i took my car to was an idiot!!! put the wrong spark plugs in and wrong plug wires! took it somewhere else and they knew exactly wut was wrong!

shows the importance of finding a good mechanic, glad its fixed. it also shows the importance of knowing exactly what your mechanic is putting in and does. now you can enjoy the car all summer.