running to rich when hot

check your o2 sensor, wiring, plugs, spark plug wires

unplug your o2 sensor completely... same issue? also your second o2 (EGT sensor) is it hooked up? somtimes ith the ecu senses high egt's or the taht sensor is screwed up it will run rich to cool things off..

ps ignore my spelling and poor crammer as seen above LOL

check you FUEL pressure,, is it normal or to high ?

maybe the maf reading is not right. ( if the ground is no good .)

the egt doesn't actually do anything except light up the sizzling hotdog on your dash.

See, here is the thing. When i'm driving at night, more often than not, it doesn't have the problem. Its when things get to hot, or when whatever sensor (if thats the problem) doesn't get a chance to cool off that it starts to bog out, (technical term). If i pull over and turn off the motor for about 30 sec to a min, it will usually start running alright again.
On another note, i'm going to try take out the EGT sensor and stuff it somewhere, but leave it connected and see if that helps. Because isn't the EGT also used as a safety against the air/fuel going lean. ie, if the air/fuel goes lean it would result in a high exhaust temperature hence heating up the EGT and triggering the ecu to start dumping extra fuel in to prevent the motor from nuking itself.
what do you all think?

the egt sensor in the cat doesn't get monitored by ecu sorry. i havent had mine plugged in for nearly 2 years.

either 1 your det sensor is on the fritz and ur on the det maps
or 2 your maf/02 sensor/air temp sensor's r poopy
or 3 your water temps r high, due to blockage/stuck thermosat

neways for diagnosis start at step 1

try to pull the engine codes first

lol sizzling hot dog

Hey I'm having the same the same issue did you ever find the problem with yours? 

fuel pump....ps do you actually know it's rich or are you just assuming because it is bogging?  a car running rich enough to bog will blow clouds of black smoke.  not blue smoke, which is oil, or white smoke which is coolant (or can be a horrendous fuel problem).

I'm not sure that it's running rich, not really smoking that I have noticed. It sounds like the boost is fine. But it's definitively not responsive at operating temperature. It's seems like a boost leak or mixture thing. But it's just strange that it gets really bad when I have been running it's for fourty minute or so.

put a heatshield underneath the intercooler and move and mount the power transistor away from the block, bolt it to an old cpu or video heatsink with some heat paste.  http://www.gtiroz.net/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=19401

How good is the turbo? Could be binding when it gets hot.

replace your fuel pump and fuel filter.  Then do a fuel flush.

going to have the car hooked up to the dyno to try and diagnose further...  Im intrigued by the power transistor relocation, can you go into further details about it? It is something that improves performance and drivability overall even if its not the problem?

I am very interested to see how this pans out. I am having the same problem; runs great until it gets hot then runs like poop... I already replaced O2 sensor, I will ground MAF and replace fuel filter this weekend this weekend. Also though, Does anyone know where to find a new MAF?? I would rather not spend the money putting a Z32 MAF in my car if i don't need to, my car needs attention elsewhere.

move the power transistor and do the heatsink mod

and stick this under the intercooler  http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/design-engineering-inc/heat-sound-barrier/reflect-gold

or use some reflectix from homedepot

it will solve ur hot issues.. why does no one ever believe me?

Nick i'm starting to wonder if the power transistor is part of my problem. As you know, my car likes to be fussy and i've never fully figured out what it is. I replaced the distributor and it seemed to fix the problem for about a month, and then randomly the car bogged when i stepped on it about 2 weeks ago. it's never happened since, but it's only ever done it when the car is warm. I'm gunna try this power transistor relocation. Still doesnt explain my knock-like idle i guess though..

i had bogging when hot, i would say it was more of a stutter, as soon as i did the power transistor mod it was gone

it would specially show itself when i'd flog the car up a mountain years back, it was almost like a slipping clutch

this road below

http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Mount+Seymour+Road,+North+Vancouver,+Vancouverin+metropolialue,+British+Columbia&hl=en&ll=49.345425...

Mine isnt really a stutter. It falls on its face and goes to full boost, and i can hear the air just sucking in like mad through the filter. But just stays on its face.

I will try the Power Transistor mod this weekend too. I have a FMIC so i'm not sure that it will do much. Does anyone know of a source for factory replacement MAF's though? I am rather convinced that either the MAF or fuel pump is the problem

try touching the power transistor after u've been driving for 30 minutes.. it has nothing to do with having an fmic or top mount

Yeah I did it was hot so i took it off the block for now. I will reloacte it later. In the mean time though i checked my distributor cap, the seal was hanging out of it. So i looked inside and all the contacts were corroded. I have the cap and stator replaced now; It hasn't hesitated yet.

i replace my cap n rotor annually, overkill yes, but i notice corrosion within 12 months

here's what my transistor is bolted to
sorry for the bad phone pics,
its bolted underneath to 2 heatsinks.  i did it this way kuz it was the only way to get it to mount, u'll have to figure out your own way

you can see the power transistor in the bottom right of the first pic

and where i mounted it with the gold thing between my heat shield and top mount

what brand cap and rotor you use nick? i can get what ever jobber peice for nx2000 with sr20 but curious if you know of a good company that makes a quality one.

since i change so often, i use the jobber piece myself.  i pay nearly cost at lordco.. and im cheap

ok cool just checking. jobber works for me, just seeinbg if maybe there is a better "after market" choice. thanks

so ive got an MSD box I guess this negates the stock power transister? just looking at the heat sink and relocation mods,,, but if ive already cut it out completely i guess they wouldnt be needed...

Hey ZED, do you ever have any hesitation issues? Maybe the key is to ditch the transistor and upgrade to an MSD box

zero hesitation.   as difficult as installing an after market audio amp.  

i also have zero hesitation since i put on the heatsink and relocated.. and used some heatshielding under my ic... try it, its free i had an old pc with old pc shit laying around, might save u some bucks before u go msd

MSD box is not free... but the heat sink mod dosnt come with a 2 step rev limit and a programable timing retard ;)

try the heat sync mod to see if thats the issue,,, then buy the MSD box to replace it :D