No oil to camshafts

You can pull the oil drain on the turbo, and crank it over. If oil is draining through, then your turbo is getting oil.You should do this with one person at the key ready to turn it off and one person looking at the oil drain (if your actually getting good oil pressure, you can drain the engine in less than a minute through your turbo.) Yes you should be getting oil squirting onto each cabshaft lobe. If your not getting oil to either turbo or camshafts, get under your car and check out your oilpan.If your oilpan is dented or beat up, the sump tube could be cracked (coulb be without oilpan being beat up too.) OR the gasket from sump tube to block could be bad. If all of that is good, then another thing to look at is your chain tensioner, they have a hydraulic tensioning system that once in awhile will fall out, resulting in a major drop in oil pressure.If none of those are faulty, maybe blockage or worst case oil pump could be bad.

I removed the bolt that holds down the feed end of the oil line,cranked the motor and oil came squirting out the hole.Both lines had all of there oiling holes plugged.I used a small torch tip cleaner to clean the holes and soaked the lines in varsol.I put them back on,cranked the motor and oil began to flow through every hole.My oil pressure gauge needle is in the middle of the gauge @ 4, I suspect this motor is a perfect example of lack of maintenance. I Just bought this gtir and I wonder how long it has been running like this for,I need a head re build for sure new cams,seals due to massive heat damage.

Hey, If it isn't knockin or making noise, the only other thing you need to worry about is compression, (I think you may have said in another post that your compression was low on a cylinder.) But that once in awhile can be a stuck ring (drop a capful of motor oil in each sparkplug hole and let em sit for a few hours) then crank over for a bit and then recheck your compression. Sometimes this will loosen your rings. If your engine gains any compression, within safe parameters, and it runs smooth/quiet, then do some seafoam to clean it out, and run a fully synthetic oil. Don't give up quite yet, you might be suprised, These engines are pretty tough.

I was going to ask if I put a couple of drops down the cylinder to see if it would loosen up the rings in number one cylinder but I thought it would be a dumb question.The top end is a bit noisey but from what I hear that comes with the territory.Full synthetic for sure but what weight,some people say 0-40,some 15-40,5-30.The car is mainly going to be used in the winter for ice racing back in Ontario temps range from -5 to -40.With that being said what should I run?

OMG ICE RACING! ' never raced a gtir but had a couple ice race cars...
fwiw: redline forty weight aka 15-40 race oil was what i used in a mitsu based ice racer[1600 cc 6800 rpm '81 plymouth champ/aka dodge colt fwd in limited stud and blizzack sponsored rubber classes]. no detergents adulterating RL race oil so that's part of where the power is recovered; nb. non-detergent type oil needs changed out often, or sludge builds up[never saw it]; if the detergentless oil's too long left in, then it was cautioned that the next detergent type oil addition then could loosen lumps and clumps of sludge in buildup that can re-stick elsewhere and clog up holes. I don't know if that might have happened in your vehicle, but sounds like you need to run some of that pre-draining solvent, drain, then fill with cheap dino oil for a short while to flush a bit more yet, then drain again and put in the real good stuff, whatever chosen. RL RP etc

But then, my industrial mechanic friend racing buddy, after initial draining of a sludged junkyard motor, simply cleaned the sludge out using ATF run in the crankcase for a only few minutes at idle speed, and would after just put in cheap dino oil and change it and filter out after a couple race weekends checking the contents for 'jewlery'. nb. these were junkyard motors from well smashed cars typically [they ran] and might last a couple seasons of weekend warrior activities. Be prepared to spend lots on consumables like oil.

You might consider for racing needs and rapid oil changing something like a remote VW diesel oil filter, along with perhaps a sump to store pressurized oil after startup to be released and pump to the bearings etc immediately prior to the next startup. The colt ice racer had separate fuel pump[s] switches and ignition switch so i could pre-lube the engine without spark or fuel to wash down the cylinder walls,.

You can use a truck trailer clearance lamp in the line of vision [or close] as a low oil pressure warning indicator, some guys had "OIL!", "STOP!" or "$$$" written on the light for emphasis - most guys don't notice the idiot light when the red mist takes hold in racing.

Re: operating temps for ice racing activities best check what rules they run under in ice competition there; but if at -20C or below at the start of the day here, sessions are postponed to protect frozen track workers on open lakes so then you might not have worry about the real cold stuff for race day startups. With that thick 15-40 grade of oil protection for flat out high rev racing you might need an underpan heater to save your starter overheating when cranking so slow; or a propane tiger torch and stove pipes with tarps whatever.

You want to have a good under oil pan skid plate protection for sure to protect the oil pan and steer away from fmic as the snowbanks are very hard sometimes. Also if 'bolted' tires are used on the track in a closed course you could bottom out in a few places easy with stock ride height and ruts created, not to mention ice ridges.

Also the fluids dept re: coolant, .. if you're ice racing and concerned with potential spills etc then propylene glycol mixed as a coolant is 'easier on the environment' and is also found useful in other racing for some thermal reasons. The pet friendly stuff even could be a requirement nowadays, so in general get your racing associations regs and recent sub regs, to save potential headaches in the tech line.

What class[es] will you be entering?

i've had my oil temps up to 110Centigrade just climbing a mountain, mind you i was driving the piss out of it for about 5 minutes.  i would go with a minimum 40w oil, either a 0w40, 5w40 or 5w50.  the motor runs super hot, so i'd get an oil cooler.  you could probably run a 40w oil with an oil cooler racing

do you have any pictures of this?

I did not take any pictures of the oil lines, I should of. I am originally from Thunder Bay and am heading back there within the next month or so because Calgary is not for me! Back in TBay, I used to run rubber to ice blizzak series. Now with this GTIR I am heading back there to run in studded A class. We use Menard studded tires out of Minnisota. No money, just bragging rights in this racing. There is studded A and studded B.Studded A has a couple different classes based on engine displacement.At the top is studded A unlimited,or 'outlaw class' anything goes.There are about 6 cars in this class,Volkswagon Sorroco,Rabbits,Honda civics,Awd twin turbo eagle talon with about 700hp that is not reliable,and now a GTIR.This class consists of the wealthy people of T.Bay.these guys pour thousands into these cars and scares everyone off from entering this class,other than the talon the rest of them are running bout 250hp.I do not have alot of money but runnin a gtir I have a chance reliability, big stock hp with lots of room for upgrades.I used to run Rubber to ice on blizzaks and won 3 straight overall championships,was called a cheater and told to move up a class.So I am going to give the big boys a run for the money, Im pretty sure I now have a car that is quite capable of this.I came from mainly Honda background but after talking to Pat @ Speedtech here in town,Nissan all the way big power for cheap(as compared to Honda, hp but no torque)I just need to start a gtir parts room,it would be nice to have a second gtir as far as i know there are no gtir's in T.Bay.Can someone tell me were I stand in regards to hp with my car,I have a 2.5" intake piping off turbo to intake,Full 2.75" exhaust,Geddy 46mm bov,Blitz FATT,K&N air Filter,walbro 255 fuel pump,150 OHM plug wires.Please bare with me, this is all new to me,also How much reliable hp can you get out of a gtir without having to upgrade transmission and axels.And at what price?@ how much boost?Does the ECU have to be upgraded?An oil cooler was mentioned to put on a stock motor,what about a motor with a bigger turbo?

I think Your going to kick the shit out of them given you get your car setup right. It looks like you've got a good start with the mods. If your not running the 1bar loop yet, that should be next on your list, oil cooler is a good idea, and an fmic. These cars are EXTREMELY capable on ice, everyone around where I live is always like "why the hell is that daihatsu passing me doing 70 on the freeway when there's ice on the ground." One thing someone already mentioned though, If you don't do your own work on your car, get ready to spend some money. If you do your own work, then you'll be just fine. Just nit-picky little things most of the time. I would right off the bat re-ground your mafs, and fuel pump. Not to say it's absolutely needed on your car, but they're kind of a weak link (and an easy job.) Are you planning on daily driving it??? OR just racing it, Because if your going to be spending a fair bit of time on ice, you might consider a front lsd. I can't help but wonder how the talon does on ice with 700hp. It seems a little overkill to me, but props for making a twin turbo 700hp talon:)

sorry im a newbie,but I do all my own work on my own vehicles could you explain a 1 bar loop .I thought front lsd's were standard equipment on all gtir's.I just came in from a no plate no insurance outlaw run in the neighborhood,I just got the car and I have discovered that there is mass amounts of hesitation after 5000 rpm.It almost feels like it is starving for fuel, the thing is I dont know if the car was already like this when I bought it,or it has just developed.The car has a compu-star alarm system that I have partially removed and now I have noticed my turn signals dont work.This car is only for racing only no street use,I just wonder if this has anything to do with my loss of power.I also have a 16 row front mount intercooler that I forgot to mention.The talon is fukin retarded on ice when he can actually finish a race,his car is far from reliable but when it does run,It is quite a show to watch.Is there visual markings to denote the grounds on the fuel pump and the maf,What are the signs if and when you have bad grounds on these components(maybe hesitation over 5000 rpm?)

Here are some links: for the maf re-ground-http://www.gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31752&highlight=maf. Yea if you've got a bad maf ground, that could definitely contribute to the power fall off after 5k.
For the 1bar loop (make sure you dont do this wrong, or you can wave goodbye to your rods as your passing them on the road)http://www.canadagtir.com/forums/technical/engine-performance/1-bar-loop
If you've got a Gtir-a, then you've got an lsd in the rear only. The Gtir-b rally models and a few others came with a front lsd as well as a rear lsd.

Awesome project. I'm sure once sorted it will be a great contender.
On the topic of saving some racing money, since Menard tires might be harder to get and more expensive these days, if its an unlimited class as to tires, you might prior to race season want to build some of your own ice stud tires for your gtir from good old used ones.
Versus purchasing for about $400 material costs i made 10 limited stud tires in about 20 hours with good help. There are a variety of construction methods. Most of the tires survived the season on account of 3m windshield adhesive on the threads and keeping lots of pressure in the tires. Maintaining the chisel cut tips sharp with a dremel for that type is a chore but gives a real advantage.
The fast Datsun below was a champ and features DIY unlimited studded tires [worn down a bit] with about the max amount of 1 cm sharped bolts possible before things fly apart.

Best success in the build and racing. AWD is not allowed in nascc ice racing, would be great to see an unlimited gtir! Cheers!

Nice! Do you have any links on more diy's for studded tires, with the 3m windshield adhesive and what not???

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