Need help from GTi-R expert - Vacuum settings, etc

Congratulation on the awesome swap man.

There are no problems with blocking the recirculation hose. Some owner would rather vent the BOV further away from the intake manifold and have the BOV directly on the IC piping.

The strongest vacuum source for the BOV on the GTIR engine is the 4TB nipples. Don't worry about capping off the intake or removing the carbon canistor although I have personally had mixed experiencing when removing the canistor. Basically you're capping off the carbon canisto vacuum line and capping the intake plenum vaccum reference.

If you're running rich then it could be indicating metered air escaping, the basetune could be off if you're running larger than stock 444cc injectors or a different MAF and the last owner was running an SAFC to adjust/compensate. I could be completely off and it's something else unrelated but that is my experience with these engines.

I'd love to see your swap so post up some pics.

there are 4 lines comming off the back of the intake manifold, top one goes to the brake booster, the second one goes to the fuel pressure regulator, the third one goes to weather it be an aftermarker BOV/stock recirc, and the fourth goes to the large fitting on the carbon canister ( if your not running the canister just cap it off, im not using mine. The best spot to get your vacuum source is to T off the fuel pressure regulator. here is a diagram you can use it worked for me perfectly when i was running new lines. As for capping off the recirc hose that goes into the intake pipe is pefectly fine as ATOMICGTIR said. 

Haha sure, I'll post some pics. (Sorry, I don't speak or write english often, so sometimes it gets confusing)

I've tried the 4TB, but like I said, car ran rich, extremely rich, about -- 10...I've tried multiple results with no luck. I run with OEM injectors, maybe a different maf, I know last owner hd some problems with it. But I've been driving this car for about 4 years without any problems. Car has an SAFC Neo which I try to compensate with the settings, but it's too rich to able to control. 

Someone told me that the 4 TB needs to be connected with the BOV, for some time it worked, after a month, car started to have these symptoms. We did a test, we disconnected between the T relied to the BOV and after de 4 TB, car ran fine, we relied them, car stalled, problem was there.

Here's what I've tried so far with the 4 TB connected to make my BOV work :
- Tried to put in into the Hot-Pipe by 'T'ing the Selonoid. Results : Nothing
- Tried the intake Vac beside the Cold-Pipe (seems to have a counter-effect) Results : Nothing
- Tried 'T'ing the intake vac with the original BOV vac. Results : Little improvement but It seems the recirculation isn't seal-off completely 'cause I can over-hear both : Original surge BOV + the HKS. without saying the idle that has increased a lot...
- Tried the Original BOV vac ran fine for a little time (about 1h), then car ran rich again.

That's pretty much what I've tried so far. 

My questions are :

- Can I rely the recirculation vac without a BOV to prevent vacuum leak?
- What is the role of the carbon canister?
- Could it be the ring of one injector that has a leak? If so, is there a way to determined is it?

Alright, thanks I'll try that 'T'ing off the fuel pressure vac to the BOV

just use the stock spot for the BOV. the one that says blow off valve on the diagram, the fuel pressure regulator is just a spot i T off off for like boost guages, electronic boost solenoid pressure and things, im sure it will work either way tho, let me know ! and i love the valve cover, swap looks good !

Thanks for the valve cover ;)

But, it didn't work either way. In the stock spot BOV, car ran rich, in fuel pressure also. Could it be possible that the spring in the BOV under all the stress it had been through is broken? 'cause I clamped off the vac from the bov on both settings as mentioned, car ran lean.

And since you got an electronic boost solenoid let me ask you a question =) Dunno if it acts the same as mine, but I need 2 vacs for an AEM Tru Boost to make it work : one from turbo pressure (hot-pipe) and one on the wastegate. Did you plug yours on the fuel pressure vac and one on the wastegate (if it needs both)? Trying to get mine to work, with no luck also..maybe wastegate is broke loll

Hy guys. I'm also trying to install a Aem tru boost controller. Can u tell me where to hook the two vac lines on the Aem solenoid too? Thanks 

Little update : I've tried going back the my old settings which was no 4TB vac and the BOV into the factory bov vac (this vac pulls hard, dunno if it's normal), car went rich again. So i've blocked it again. 
Right now, i've put the BOV into the hot-pipe, doesn't make a sound. The only BOV sound I can get is a fully sequential type coming out the Cold Air Intake (Air Filter) turbo compression surge...

Any ideas?

its going rich kuz ur venting meter'd air

Didn't have any problem with that before...why would it start now? Ran with the 4 TB - 1 BOV, worked great. After a while it started, and was getting worse. 

So what's my best option?
Try putting it back into the recirculation between the compressor and maf by buying a recir setting from HKS? 
Or what would be the best option to connect my vac from the bov

Thanks

Found the problem, BOV is leaking. She started making a sound today. Spring is loose like a hell...

Thanks for the help people, really appreciated. I've learned more on Vacuum.

Glad you found the problem, I know that a sprinkler spring fits nicely in an HKS bov to make it tighter. Leave the stock one in and fit the smaller one inside to double them up. Should hold nicely.

thanks guys i have a simular problem will try a new spring on my dump valve and if u could tell me why would u cap the bottom pipe on the carbon cannister cause mine is also capped off

Scrap the carbon canister altogether.  It's a waste of space.  Causes more idle problems because of leaky valve, cap off everything related to it, and run the tank vent into the frame.

Don't vent to atmos with your BOV unless you are a race car, or are specifically tuned for it eg: you are running a map setup or blow through maf.  Nothing good ever comes from dumping metered air.  If you recirc, you can set your BOV spring as light as you want, and have a great response to avoid comp surge which will kill your turbo.

You will also notice better gas mileage as the engine will draw air through the open blow off valve while in vaccuum instead of having to pull in through the turbo and intercooler and all the piping.