&*#!@'n Clutch MC - my bleedin' knuckles hurt
Just installed a new clutch master cylinder bought from Nissan (~$130 + taxes). The part number shown on our list in the "Most Viewed Articles" section is now out-of-date, so if you try to order this part from Nissan don't be suprised or scared if they give you a different reference number. (Sorry, I don't have the new P/N on hand, I'll add it to this thread later)
Anyway, I think I now qualify for a license to work in confined spaces. Unhooking the MC from the clutch pedal is challenging enough, nevermind the two nuts holding it onto the firewall. I took off the driver's side wheel to access the lower nut (blindly, with my face pressed up to the fender), and took the top nut off with a few extensions and a universal joint from overtop of the TMIC. I then had to twist the whole assembly into multiple positions and angles until, after 15 minutes of trial and error, I was able to yank the old MC out through the driver's wheel well. It will NOT come out over the intake manifold. Installing the new one was much of the same (in reverse, of course), however I foolishly didn't line up the new MC's pedal link with the pedal's shaft until after I bolted everything down. DON'T MAKE THIS MISTAKE, the MC's shaft is designed to allow it to be on an angle from its body, but there isn't enough play to angle the shaft enough to line it up with the clutch pedal once it's tightened down to the firewal. (Follow me? I know, long-winded.) Anyway, I finally got it all together, filled the reservoir with synthetic dot 5 brake fluid, gravity bled it through the slave cylinder, and voila! No more dripping in the footwell, and nice buttery-smooth engagement and disengagement.
Incidently, if anyone wants a clutch master cylinder for rebuilding, you can have my old one for $20 plus shipping.
Ty
All go, no show









i just rebuilt mine instead of repalcingt eh whole cylinder, take off the yoke that connects to the pedal, you can get it from inside the car, the bolts on the firewall are easier to get at with some extensions and yes the master cylinder does come out above the intake manifold, thats who i got mine out, a few grunts and groans but it came out
BOTTLES ARE FOR BABIES.. REAL MEN GET BLOWN
and yes the master cylinder does come out above the intake manifold, thats who i got mine out, a few grunts and groans but it came out
Good for you. Couldn't twist the cylinder around enough to force it out the top. New part number from Nissan is 30610-54C50.
All go, no show
ahh i love thes tips and tricks... noted the new part number too
hey Gti-rrr whats the number for the rebuild kit I might as well do it while she sleeps for the winter
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
im just about to replace the clutch master myself. not looking forward to it.
i ordered one from NAPA for an 87 Pulsar NX (with ca18de). i hope it works! looks damn near identical.
i'll update with how that goes. if it works, i'll toss up the part number here too.
PS I hope you didn't really use DOT5 fluid in your Nissan clutch system??
DOT5 is a silicone fluid and this means it does not play well with the nissan/oem seals, which are meant to work with polyethylene glycol based brake fluids (DOT3, DOT4, DOT 5.1)
something to consider
-Mike

i just emailed adam at feast auto and he got everything sorted for me, i only got the rebuild kit instead of the whole new cylinder
BOTTLES ARE FOR BABIES.. REAL MEN GET BLOWN
my friend did the same thing, actually, but the piston in the kit he got was totally the wrong size. do you remember or have on hand the part # you ordered and received from adam? cheers, mike
-Mike

i dont have the email i sent him, but i have the invoice
item is
Nissan Part – RNN14 Pulsar Clutch M/S Rebuild Kit # 30610K
if that helps
BOTTLES ARE FOR BABIES.. REAL MEN GET BLOWN
that helps only partially. 30610K is the part code but not the full part number. oh well, it doesnt really matter, since i just realized i made a mistake anyway. it was the slave kit my friend got that was the wrong size. (my friend ordered both slave and master kits). i think the kit for the master he got worked fine. if you come across the full part number i can cross-reference it in FAST to see if there is a local equivalent. =)
-Mike

Make sure you measure the inside diameter of your slave cylinder first... I Found mine was bored out to 7/8" instead of 3/4" I eventually ordered a Slave cylinder for a 89-94 Isuzu Trooper took out it's Piston and used it in my Slave cylinder.
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
ok so
the 87-89 Pulsar NX clutch master cyl does NOT interchange
it looks identical, same length, shape, the line port is in the exact same spot, etc. HOWEVER the holes do not line up with the studs
what i ended up doing is taking all the bits from the new NX master cyl and transferring it to my gtir's old clutch master body
since the pulsar NX master cyl was a special order item through NAPA from the states, it cost me $160
turned out to be the most expensive rebuild kit ever :(
incidentally, the clutch master *rebuild kit* nissan part number is 30611-02Y25
and that IS the same as the KN13 Pulsar NX (87-89) rebuild kit
-Mike

you could have ordered a brand new direct replacement from nissan for 145$
it amazes me how sometimes ppl skip the easy things
1. giving your local nissan parts counter a call and ask for a price
2. trying the various online retailers of jdm parts, feast auto, gspec
3. not checking nissan fast or the online fast for part number crossover http://nissan4u.com/parts/sunny/
yawn, thanks. im fully aware of all those things.
i wanted to see if there was a local alternative. call it a failed experiment.
also, not every nissan parts dept recognizes or wants to deal with JDM part numbers.
ive had fast for 4+ years and use it practically every day.
how do you think i stumbled upon the NX piece appearing so similar (but in the end still being different) ;)
-Mike

sure i guess if u enjoy wasting money
http://ztune.ca/product.aspx?productid=7893e4e6-9489-dd11-92c4-0003ff2732c9 90$ even cheaper for a brand new oem unit.
haha trust me, i dont. where were you with that link two weeks ago!
oh well, live and learn.
if i could do it all again i would have ordered a $15 rebuild kit. it's extremely easy.
also, in terms of removal, i was able to get the master out over the intake without taking off the intake or anything else.
my car does not have ABS, so i dunno, maybe that makes the difference
-Mike

Trying to buy a clutch master cylinder from Z-Tune today... I cannot seem to contact them via any of the phone numbers from the website, I have also tried BC directory assistance and they have no such listing.... e-mailed them and get an auto reply that they are closed and no longer taking orders.... Any other idea's as to where I can get one of these? Maybe I'll just order it from Nissan. Thanks guys Mike
So many unsuspecting victims... So little time.
ztune closed down months back
Ordered clutch master from my local Nissan Dealer, in stock in Toronto and Montreal, so should be in by Mon-Tuesday. With my tech discount works out to same price as z-tune, so not a big deal. Thanks again guys!
So many unsuspecting victims... So little time.
^^ which clutch master did you order?
What year/model and/or what part number?
-Mike

30610-54C50
So many unsuspecting victims... So little time.
crap i gotta do my cm this weekend, it just shit itself in the sub zero temps.
Oh your going to be saying much worse words than crap this weekend that's for sure...
So many unsuspecting victims... So little time.
it wasn't as bad as i thought it would be, just some things were annoying. did the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, and a new stainless line in about 4.5hrs.
my steps not including slave.
1. drain the system, attach some fish tank hose, crack the slave open, and pump the clutch to empty the fluid out. Close the slave.
2. remove top mount intercooler and strut bar if in place
3. put a jack under the motor and lift it a tiny bit, remove the drivers side mount(1 bolt). slowly allow the engine to sag, gives u more room to work with.
4. undo the clip holding the reservoir hose to the clutch master. (1 screw/bolt)
5. undo the bracket holding the reservoir, remove reservoir. (2 nuts)( clean it with brake parts cleaner, probably dirty as shit)
6. undo the bracket (2 bolts) holding the power steering line (the thick one wrapped in rubber/foam, running over the top of the intake manifold)
7. separate the power steering line from the bracket (1 bolt)
8. undo the hard line from the clutch master (10mm pipe wrench)
9. undo the 2 nuts holding the clutch master in (14 or 12mm can't remember) tip, stuff some shop rags underneath the clutch master, in case the nuts fall after loosening. unless you have magnetic sockets. you should be able to get to both, by simply pushing the power steering line out of the way. ( the lower nut may need a wobbly joint)
10. remove drivers seat, raise steering wheel to maximum height.
11. get onto your back and undo the 12mm nut behind the yoke attached to the clutch pedal. back it off as far as you can.
12. undo the clip and knock out the pin holding the yoke to the pedal. DO NOT LOSE.
13. use pliers and grab the yoke, push the rod into the clutch master and slip it over the pedal arm. unscrew the yoke.
14. go back to clutch master, pull it out as far as you can. if you can't get the rod out of the firewall, take some long pliers (angled ones are good) and pull the rod into the clutch master.
15. fiddle, pull, twist, move shit out of the way till u get the clutch master to come out the space between firewall and intake manifold. it will come out.
16. once u've got it out, take a break.
17. get the new clutch master, take a zip tie, and put it through the yoke and the mounting holes. make the clutch master as small as you can.
18. fit it back into the hole you pulled the old CM out of as best as you can, once u've got the yoke and rod into the hole in the firewall, snip the zip tie.
19. reattach the 2 nuts (use tape on your sockets if you don't have magnetic ones)
20. reinstall the rest in reverse.
21. after its all in, fill, and follow normal bleed procedure.
handy tools to have
14mm,12mm,10mm socket (long and short, wobbly joints, short extensions, magnetic)
14mm,12mm,10mm wrench (long and short)
10mm pipe wrench
pliers (small, long, angled needle nose)
gloves
flashlight
lamp
beer
I don't know if mine needs replacing but im just going to add it to the winter project list,,, I just installed the garage heater mod..
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
oh yah if anyone wants my old clutch master for a rebuild or my old slave (still good) and or clutch line (still good), they can have it all for 50$ shipped.