Low oil pressure

fix the dent first, you'll see why when u take the pan off and the pick up

the louder tapping is probably just your lifters, else if its knocking its your bearings going bibi

try adding more oil as a test... my car is very picky and like a little more oil than the stick says... cost nothing to try...

i'll try pounding out the pan which sucks cause i just changed the oil,but if it fixes the problem then well worth it, ill try adding a little bit of oil too, what does everyone else run for oil pressure when hot?

I had a similar problem... it was the pan. I have a oil pump if you need it.. no charge.

ill have to pull the engine to change the oil pump wont i?

no. i did it and you can do it w/o pulling the engine. its a bitch but not as much of a chore as to pull the engine....

hi that happened to me its the oil pan with a dent fix it and it will be fine

Yeah got some hoist time at my buddies shop and pounded the pan out. The pressure rises and falls now but what is everyone running for pressure when warm? Once warm mine drops to about 2 then will shoot up to just over 4 under boost. normal?

i think thats how it is and it depends on the the thickness (grade) of the oil
that oil do you use ?

5 w 40 amsoil in summer

i have a ? if somebody could answer please
I have a 200sx, i just swap a 94 GTi-r motor into it, i was wondering what the average oil pressure for this motor is

6-8 bar cold start
2-4 bar warmed up

i wanna know too.. im running at 2 under no load... and about 4+ under load is that normal?

That's where mine runs too, i hope it's adequate

same here, 4~5 cold start, then just above 2 at idle when warm and 4+ under load and rpm rise.

mine is 8ish on cold starts, cant remember on idle but definitely 4+ under load/rpm rise

my pan was dented too, skid plates should have been standard. when i straightens out the dent i found no difference, hopefully that sorts it out for you.

also, the factory oil pressure gauge in my car was real slow. maybe concider a mechanical unit so you can be sure what your oil pressure realy is

steviez if u still got that pump il take it... i think myns gone :(

QUOTE FROM MECHANICAL FAQ

What should the compression of the cylinders be?
Standard: 164psi
Minimum: 135psi
Difference limit between cylinders: 14psi

What should the oil pressure be?
At Idle = more than 1kg/cm² (varies with oils, and engine condition, buy most people report 2-3)
At 3200rpm = 3.5 - 4.5kg/cm² (standard gauge)
(normal operating temp, with no load)

What is the stock boost?
550mmHg / 10.6psi / 0.73bar
(which is ~5.5 on the stock boost guage)

What does the stock boost guage read in?
Millimetres of Mercury (mmHg) x100

What is the max boost the stock turbo can produce?
The stock ecu cuts fuel when the "injector pulse time" exeeds 17millisecs.
So depends on the efficiency of the engine and your setup (varies) but is around 20psi (1.4bar) give-or-take a few psi,
but the turbo is well out of it's efficient range there and is producing more heat than power (read: dangerous).
(owners with upgraded and tuned ignition/fueling have shown as high as 1.8bar is possible - not recommended for turbo longevity)

What is the max safe boost to run with stock fueling?
14.5psi (1 bar) is commonly considered the safest max level
some owners run 16-17psi (1.2bar) for years with no obvious negative effects,
many owners run 13psi (0.9bar) to be on the safer of the safe side

What is the standard clutch rated to?
580kg
(the Nismo options are 880kg and 960kg)

What clutch should I get?
There is no definitive answer.
It varies on your application (power levels, driving style, etc)
The clutch disc and cover are both the same as the SR20DET S14 (it's just the release beraring that is different)
The most common brand choices these days (due to price and availability) are Xtreme and Exedy.
Whatever you get, make sure you use the NTN release bearing (not the SKF one, it will fail).

Should I bring the car to a mechanic for a "tune up" if i've got the stock computer?
There is no way to make changes to the fuel or ignition maps on a stock GTI-R ECU,
you either need a air/fuel controller (ie. Apexi AFC), or a daughterboard (ie. Nisstune), or piggyback unit (ie. Greddy eManage), or replacement ECU (ie. PowerFC).
All that is possible in stock form is to adjust the idle speed and base timing.

What should the base timing be set to?
20 degrees BTDC (+/- 2)
(see EF&EC section of the manual for details - there is aso a HOW TO thread in the FAQ section)

What should the idle be after warm-up?
925rpm (+25, -75, so anywhere from 850-950 is within spec)

How do I fix high idle?
Follow the procedures in the EF&EC section of the manual.

What are the recommended basic upgrades?
[in no particular order]
regular servicing (with quality oils and fluids)
tyres (good ones)
brakes (slotted rotors and good pads)
exhaust (bigger 70-75mm with high-flow cat)
dump pipe (bigger/seperated)
air filter (pod in a box with cold air intake)
strut braces (front and rear)
sway bars (add rear and smaller front)
bushes (poly to replace all rubber)
suspension (good springs and shocks or coilovers)
boost increase (preferably with electronic controller)
fmic (if in a hot area or doing a lot of city driving)
fuel pump and fpr (larger)
injectors (larger - needs ecu)
afm (larger - needs ecu)
ecu remapped (chip or piggyback or replacement ecu or air flow controller)

Can you make the car RWD?
Not without permanently changing it (and wheelbase is too short for an ideal drift setup)

Are the engine parts from the non-GTIR SR20DET the same? (throttle bodies/injectors/gaskets/etc)
No

What are the options for brake upgrades?
Standard size:
The very common standard-size replacements are disks from DBA and pads from Bendix/RaceBrakes/EBC
HiSpec and GodSpeed (UK) sell kits.
Any brakes can be fitted if you get a custom adpater plate made and have enough room behind your wheels.
Calipers that people have fitted:
R32 GTS-t 4-spots
BMW 7 Series
Volvo 4-spots
300zx Z32
PBR twin-pistons (Group A VN Commondore)
Rotors that people have fitted:
330mm DBA rotors (custom adapters)
330mm Group A Celica

Will water get in the plugs if I use waterspray kits on the TMIC?
They are fine if set up correctly (ie. a mist and not a stream)

Where do I put an exhaust gas sensor/probe?
Into the exhaust manifold at the collector point just before the turbine housing (or in the dump pipe for easier installation)

What size wheels/tyres should I fit?
The GTI-R left the factory with 14" wheels and a 195/55 tyre (with 185/60 as a documented alternative).
The NME WRC cars used 15" wheels.

Increasing wheel size by more than 5% of the factory rolling radius will negatively effect the car by:
- putting speedo calibration out
- reducing acceleration
- reducing fuel economy
- reducing hydroplaning resistance
- reducing steering quality (tram-lining, directness, etc)
- reducing suspension life
- increasing ride harshness
- increasing unsprung weight
- increasing pressure on drivetrain components

Options under 5%:
15" - 205/45, 205/50, 195/50, 195/55 (arguably the best performance/size compromise)
16" - 205/40, 205/45 (arguably the biggest you should go for street use)
17" - 205/40 (best left for dedicated track cars with big brake upgrades)\

Can I fit 18s or 19s?
Yes, but you shouldn't - see reasons above.
18" - There are no tyre options under 10% difference to the factory rolling radius (although physically possible, and a few owners have fitted them - not recommended)
19" - Dangerous (although it has been done by an owner in the Netherlands)

What should I get done in an engine rebuild?
There are many levels of rebuild - but as a basic "standard":
Engine Gasket Kit (Metal Gead Gasket)
Main/Bigend Bearings
Oil Pump Gears
Forged Pistons
Lighten and Balance Crankshaft Assembly

What else should I do when the engine is out?
Clutch Master Cylinder
Water Pump
Starter Motor
Timing Chain Tensioner
Water Hoses (there's 10)

^^ Should be added to the important documents on the website!

x2^^ ...thats awsome stuff

hi five to that post man,,, good info Sticky it kthnx