Just swapped clutch, won't idle.

Oh, and i heard from my shop guy that he worked on one one time and it was the airbypass valve. Conveniently placed behind the intake mani... I know my parents sentra's idle was messed, and when that valve was cleaned it fixed the idle.. BTW the idle is like 600 rpm bouncing all over. I took it for a very short drive and when i let off the gas coming up to a stop sign the rpms dives to about 200 rpm, then as i come to a stop, it bobbles its way back up to 600..

Just use a multimeter to test if your electric is where it should be. Your looking for 12-13 volt car off and 13-14 volt running. Test in the engine bay at your connections, and not at the battery.

Does the car drive fine, or is it missing also?

Mine was acting similar, and all I did was fix the fuel sending unit O-ring!! I though I had lost another fuel pump, but it appears that my IAC needed adjusting. I had to back it out nearly half way out to get it to start somewhat reliably, but now it idles near 1KRPM as opposed to that 600ish that your at!.

Try that, might be that simple. I think it has something to do with the ECM needing to relearn the idle after lacking power for an extended time.

did u play with ur idle screw? tps voltage ok?

sounds like boost leaks to me

Boost leaks don't affect idle.

if your leaking a mad amount of metered air it will.

are u missing the caps on the throttle bodies?  sometimes they get blown off.
the hose on the bypass valve is another one that slips off too, check that.
what's your maf voltage at idle?  what's the resistance on the ground on the maf?
all engine grounds in place?  
ecu in limp mode? <--- im assuming no codes?

Have not checked codes yet. its only thrown one code at me once. but then it never did again. I've regrounded it but i think ive set my multimeter wrong :P all i get is 3.7 (what i thought was volts) but i'm assuming its .003 volts or 3 millivolts, which is mint. its at -22psi so no boost leaks. Yep checked and replaced all caps under throttle bodies, they do like to blow off though, you're right. I'm going to take the manifold off and get at/clean the IAC... cuz i noticed when i started it this morning that it idled fine for the first like 30 seconds, then once it got semi warm it started to idle like crap again (which to me makes sense that it would be bypass valve, yes?) Looked all over and can't find any grounds not in place/things that need to be plugged in. Once i get the mani off though i will have a better look at the back, cuz i could've forgot to plug something in back there when i replaced the coolant hoses. That manifold looks like its gunna be fierce to get off though..

You shouldn't leak any metered air at idle, vacuum leaks result in high idles, not low ones, and would be after the throttle plates. I've blown off couplers on mine and it idled fine, revved real badly though!!

Werid, ive blown couplers off as well and the thing will barely idle at all, and forget about reving it lol

Yep, weird. Might have something to do with why a fuel tank o ring affected my idle soooo much!! lol! :)

Man, I cant wait to ditch my afm!!

hahah agreed........ apologies for post whoring hahah

good thing u apologized.. else someonez might whine a bit

oops did i say that out loud

i wondered about the amount of vapour pressure held in the tank of my gtir, [noticed on whoosh of vapour on refueling when removing the gas cap]; perhaps it has to be sealed to atmosphere to work.
any chance there's a loose connection or harness that might have been rearranged on r+r of the clutch? i wonder if a sensor isn't connected properly.

Its possible. from what i can tell, everything has been reconnected. but i'm taking off the manifold tomorrow and wil clean everything back there. and make sure all connections are reconnected.

had to quote this cuz it may have been lost by some while i was being thread jacked :P

too bad u didnt live closer to me, i'd lend u my consult cable.  we could monitor what ur maf, and aac numbers look like.
if u can get ur consult cable working it may help with trouble shooting

i still gotta try mine again. I wasn't very impressed with it. Its so ghetto how it was put together, and then i had to go out and buy another cable to make it able to hook up to my laptop, which cost me another 50 bucks. i'll give it another go after i clean the bypass valve.

now now i apologized already :P haha

Does anyone know how to get the manitfold off? Did you take the top half off first, or what?

Does anyone know how to get the manitfold off? Did you take the top half off first, or what?

So i cleaned it, but still won't work, oh well it needed a good cleaning anyways. Check codes, got 13 which is "Engine temperature sensor circuit" What does this mean, and where is this sensor??

Maybe it is running rich because the engine thinks the temperature is lower and that lowered the rpm with the sensor falsing.
if it was running great before maybe just a connecton prob with some luck

I took off that connector, cleaned it off a bit and put it back on, cleared the codes, let it run for a little while, then checked fault codes again and it gave me 55, no codes.. so i guess thats good. I checked the strength of the spark.... not really sure how to read the little thingy, but from just the coil wire, the spark jumped all the way across past the 40 mark, but on the wires it only would arc to the 20. Also tested resistance of the wires. Just the short coil wire (about 4 inches long) got a reading of 1950!! And i couldnt even get a reading on any of the other 4 wires...

http://www.gtiroz.net/gallery/diagrams/abb

http://www.gtiroz.net/gallery/diagrams/abc

http://www.gtiroz.net/gallery/diagrams/EM_69

Spark plug wires will be in the kOhm range. If it doesn't read at all, is your DVOM in an auto range mode?

Im not sure.... is that the one with a little arrow pointing at a "+" sign? haha.. i have new accel wires coming anyways.

Jackson Auto, Ryan? Yeah, that was my R that was idling high. They did their best to clean out the bypass without removing the intake manifold (think they used a series of straws and a can of ReleaseAll?), but I still get occasional high idle, especially after the car's warmed up real well. Meh, doesn't bother me too much. Anyway, I never suffered from LOW idle, so your issue definitely seems to be more sensor-related. Sorry you took apart your mani before I noticed this thread. :-{

Well my idle is still poopy, but alot better than it was. took him for a short drive just to see, and it no longer dives in rpm coming to a stop. It idles at about 1000 and kinda bobbling a little bit still, but nothing like before. the higher idle is from the screw on the IAC valve, threaded it out a bit, but i have new plug wires coming, hopefully its just that, but yes its much better than it was. And Ty i got at the bypass and cleaned it, it was a mess so it needed to be done anyways so its all good.

Updates. So i got it going to where i was confidant driving it. But now my rpm gauge has quit working. But when it stopped working all the lights flickered and it beeped a few times then shutoff.... So i don't know what that was about. It drives just fine though aside from the rpms gauge not working. Everything else inside works, all gauges, lights on gauges, turbot timer, radio etc... So i'm not sure what happened... I checked all fuses beside the steering wheel, no codes.