highest rev limit on stock motor??

I think taking it on the dyno and getting it tuned is the only way to figure it out without blowing your motor.

i actually do the tuning by myself at cayuga, i dont really trust anyone else to tune my car i've heard some horror stories lol but as for my question i was refering to mechanical issues such as valve float/ stretched rods/breaking rod bolts?etc. and wondering if the gtir engines have any known problems with revving past 7500rpm on stock internals/head? or if i need to replace the rod bolts/valve springs/lifters and all that crap in order to rev higher? all replies are appreciated, thanks

Shouldn't have any problems with rods, most of the people that have problems with high revving sr's find that it is the top end that is lacking. The solid lifters help a lot on our cars, but I'd still be worried about spitting a rocker arm out at over 8000 rpm. bye bye head. Get the rockers properly shimmed, and then put some rocker arm stoppers in there along with some dual valve springs and you should be good well over 8000.

this is worth a read on rocker arm stoppers

http://www.sr20-forum.com/general-sr20/17994-rocker-arm-stoppers.html

but no point in increasing the rev limit really unless u go with bigger cams

Bringing the car to a dyno doesn't mean that you get it tuned by them. If you are concerned about the rev limit then seeing it on a dyno chart will help you see where the power starts to drop off.That will be a good place to start.Also gets you an accurate air fuel ratio.

http://gtiroc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=49606&highlight=ashills  stock head on ashills car on gtiroc shows him making 463 peak at around 5500 rpm and power slowly falling off 

there's no real point in increasing the rev limit without big cams

Just because power is falling off, doesn't mean you wont see acceleration gains from raising the rev limit. Yes you have to take it to a dyno. But unless you only care about just throwing up peak hp numbers you need to calculate what your overall torque at the wheels is, and then factor in your engine rpm in each gear to see whether or not raising the limit nets you more area under the curve from 1st through 5th gear.

i have an aem wideband mounted in my car its what i use to tune, i appreciate the links u pointed out for me i will give them a read, i will run my car on a dyno after i get it tuned at 22psi and i get some extra $$, then i'll post up the numbers!! unless i'm dissappointed LOL

perhaps if you're looking for the last tenth in a quarter mile at the expense of your motor.. i'd say 99% of the people on this board including myself would benefit from 500$ in driving lessons vs revving the motor to 8500rpms to gain time 

i don't see why people are so concerned to push their motor to the limit when 99% of the driver can't extract the full potential of the car neways

Driving lessons? The guy is asking about raising his rev limit. I'm just providing information.

If we went by what you say, we should all keep our cars stock and focus on learning to drive better because no one here can "extract the full potential" of our cars.

Why do guys put performance air filters on their cars? In most cases it gives very minimal HP increases and like you said the driver probably sucks and can't make use of the power properly anyway, but it makes the car more fun to drive. Every little bit helps. I think a GTiR screaming out to 8500 or 9000 rpm would sound amazing. Throw some mild cams on there and you'll see big gains in the upper range.

ok then
if he comes back in 2 weeks and says he bent a valve kuz he was revving to 8500 b/c it sounds cool
then so be it if thats the advice you want to give

i personally would not take it past 7800rpms, since most factory tachs are never perfect nor accurate

it would end up being a very expensive high rpm shift

/sarcasm >HA your so right nick as usual your sooo right disregard and see new forum topic : 
http://www.canadagtir.com/forums/canada-gtir/general-chatter/post-flamers

AND DISREGARD THE DAMN SYNTAX... 

funny how your opinion is a comment on others opinion haha

ben (caravanturbo) heres the only advice i can give you, do what you want to do, listent o each piece of advice carefully and decide what you want to use.

any other usless waste of time bitching replies to this will be deleted... come on guys out of 30 odd million people there are 700 guys with gtirs and all you can do is argue on a difference of opinion

i apologize for creating a topic that created an argument it was not my intention obviously lol i was just wondering if anyone HAS revved their gtir higher with stock internals, or even stock bottom end with head work. and btw i did ask this question because of what LYNX suggested, i would absolutely LOVE TO hear my gtir rev to 8500rpm, but ONLY if its SAFE LOL because i obviously dont want to bend valves. i appreciate everyones replies please let me know if any of you stumble across someone who revs their gtir high, thanks again. Ben

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-build-a-9000-rpm-sr20det-head.html

Have a Read.
Then remember:
We have the best stock bottom end of the lot, and my "stock"(bottom end) DE would rev to 8000 frequently. Plenty of guys are revving over 8000 with stock RWD DET's.
We also already have solid lifters, and if you shim the rockers, get valve springs, and put stoppers in, I'd drive that thing at 9000 all day.

The biggest thing to worry about on these motors is spitting a rocker arm as I said before. There is a post somewhere about a race team that spit a rocker arm even with the rocker arm stoppers. Then they started shimming their rockers properly, and have since stopped using the stoppers, and have yet to spit another one.

After the rocker issue, valve float is a common problem amongst all engines revved over stock. Valve springs will fix it. If you want cheap, get the BC ones. I used those in my DE. If you want extra insurance go with dual springs. It helps eliminate valve train harmonics which contributes to float.

****DISCLAIMER****
Don't do this, you might bend a valve!!!!

There I made sure he was aware of what he was getting into. ;) lol

P.S. Caravan why the horrible 60' ? my NX pulls a 2.1 on street tires. Being careful with the drive train?

vibration at those rev will also increase
if the crank is not balance to those rev the bottoms end wont last long .

a blueprint could be usefull

it the only thing that can apen to the bottoms ... ( that i think )

the top end have been covered enough and i have nothing to add

ok thank you very much, and yes i do not launch my car i am scared to break the trans case as i've heard that thats what happens, i do 1/4 mile 90% for the trap speed, 10% for the et LOL just so i can do a rough comparison to other vehicles lol my goal is 120mph.... :)

Another issue with high revs is the distributor... a lot of FWD DET's have a dizzy and newer RWD DET's have Distributer-less ignition systems (DIS)or coil on plug (COP) set ups?

I know that Jim wolf has a tech article about modding your stock Dizzy to reduce electro magnetic build up in the distributor cap.  I believe Moisture is the key and this may only apply to non GTiR distributors... food for thought,,,

with the exception of the vvl motor, the gtir motor can rev to 8500, i don't recommend you do it all the time- you will have valve floating, especially if you don't have springs and retainers , i've revved my motor to 8200 rpm. with more boost you will never need to rev that high anyway

I was trying to figure out a way to ask about the 60' without being rude too, thank you:) dead honest, no sarcasm.

HI Caravanturbo,

I have my rev limit set to 8200RPM and rev there all day long with stock top end. If your head is shimmed up properly and you trust your old stock springs ... I mean really trust them or if they were new then yeah you could probably run up to 8500RPM without any worries.

Being this is the real world and your springs are old and fatigued I wouldn't really trust the setup past 8200RPM. Remember with a boost up (which I assume you have with your mod list) also increases the return friction on the intake valves as well right before they close (when the boost is trying to hold the valve open). So 22 lbs. (aprox 1.5 bar) of boost will slightly reduce the spring pressure on the valves multiplied by the higher RPM's which will reduce the time the spring has to return that valve back to it's closed position which of course eventually creates valve float(Some people say it's negligible but the higher the RPM's the more it does come into play) . Hence the usage of dual springs to increase the return pressure on the valve and reduce the harmonic susceptibility of valve float.

Your bottom end I wouldn't worry about unless you have a a lubrication problem being low oil pressure due to worn out pump or bearing clearances.

All your other mods are fine as long as your within "safely tuned parameters" and your clutch is holding up to the torque. They won't come into play for the higher RPMs except for the clutch of course or if you have no tuning for the higher RPM's (no map = no fuel = bye bye motor)

Hope this helps as I do actually drive up in that range all the time without worries.

about the 60 foot its just plain not worth takin the chance of breaking it to me, i have enough fun bangin through the gears for now so i just set my goal as the certain trap speed i want with a 2.1 ish 60ft. i just do not want to break the tranny thats all..

fair enough, I love working on my car, but hate doing tranny swaps. With the straight cut gears you'll be killin that quarter and 60'. With the meth, and the right driving, I think low 11's or 10's.

ya tranny swaps are no fun lol but ya i should be able to do low 11s with the gears!! it will take a couple years of saving up though lol

Yea I hear ya, but it will be fun driving as wreckless as you want with them!

straight cut gears from where??

ppg or par from australia

OMG how much are those?!?!? Im guessing 2K plus

Nissan GTi-R Dog Engagement (RS5F50A)$4,320 AUD (plus GST)
Nissan's AWD RS5F50A transaxle is fitted to the RNN14 Pulsar GTi-R and U12/U13 Bluebird vehicles.Consisting of twin parallel shafts with 5 speeds and double cone synchronizers on 2rd and 3rd gear, these transmissions are the same as the RS5F50A FWD variants with the only real difference being a slightly different reverse gear configuration.
Queries are often made about the layout/configuration of the Nissan ATTESA system used in these transverse vehicles as it is very difficult to understand without having seen the internals of the transaxle and transfer case. The viscous limited slip differential housed in the main transmission case is the centre differential of the vehicle and directs drive to either the front or rear of the vehicle depending on the amount of slippage. Drive is sent via two hollow output shafts to both the front and rear differential via the right angle drive located in the transfer case. The outer shaft drives the rear differential via the rear output on the transfer case, whereas the inner hollow shaft drives the open front differential. The left hand front solid driveshaft through the centre differential and hollow shafts into the front differential located in the transfer case.
These transmissions are known to fail when driven hard with more power or with an aggressive clutch. Breakages are most often seen in 2nd and 3rd gears. Another common issue with worn transmissions is the collapse or loss energiser springs/clips from the 3rd/4th gear hub/slider which can cause selection issues for 3rd and 4th gears. The transmission housing's strength is also a concern with Nissan fitting 4 different revisions through the vehicles 4 years of production. The latest revision features thicker case walls with extra ribbing and larger housing bolts.
Available in a 1st~4th dog engagement, straight cut configuration, the RS5F50A gearset is a normally stocked item which is suitable for the tough street vehicle and both drag or circuit racing applications. A number or ratios are available with an optional overdrive 5th gear set if required.
Features:- Tooth profiles that reduce noise, wear and load forces on the standard OEM transmission housing- Retension of OEM 5th gear assembly provides OEM NVH levels during cruise and freeway driving- Straight cut gears (1st~4th) for maximum power transmission and minimal losses- Straight cut gears also minimise thrust forces on the transmission housing- Needle roller bearings minimise friction for maximum durability and economy- Billet 3rd/4th shift fork- No extra cost custom ratios
Ratios:- 1st: 2.69- 2nd: 1.85- 3rd: 1.31- 4th: 1.10- 5th: 0.96, 0.75 (Optional)
Applications:- RNN14 SR20DET- RNU12 SR20DET- HNU13 SR20DET
Nissan GTi-R Synchromesh (RS5F50A)$3,250 AUD (plus GST)
Nissan's AWD RS5F50A transaxle is fitted to the RNN14 Pulsar GTi-R and U12/U13 Bluebird vehicles.Consisting of twin parallel shafts with 5 speeds and double cone synchronizers on 2rd and 3rd gear, these transmissions are the same as the RS5F50A FWD variants with the only real difference being a slightly different reverse gear configuration.
Queries are often made about the layout/configuration of the Nissan ATTESA system used in these transverse vehicles as it is very difficult to understand without having seen the internals of the transaxle and transfer case. The viscous limited slip differential housed in the main transmission case is the centre differential of the vehicle and directs drive to either the front or rear of the vehicle depending on the amount of slippage. Drive is sent via two hollow output shafts to both the front and rear differential via the right angle drive located in the transfer case. The outer shaft drives the rear differential via the rear output on the transfer case, whereas the inner hollow shaft drives the open front differential. The left hand front solid driveshaft through the centre differential and hollow shafts into the front differential located in the transfer case.
These transmissions are known to fail when driven hard with more power or with an aggressive clutch. Breakages are most often seen in 2nd and 3rd gears. Another common issue with worn transmissions is the collapse or loss energiser springs/clips from the 3rd/4th gear hub/slider which can cause selection issues for 3rd and 4th gears. The transmission housing's strength is also a concern with Nissan fitting 4 different revisions through the vehicles 4 years of production. The latest revision features thicker case walls with extra ribbing and larger housing bolts.
Originally released in 2002, our synchromesh engagement gearset for the GTi-R has now been revised to bring it up-to-date with the very latest technology and introduce the very latest production techniques. As a result, assembly and installation is easier with needle roller bearings incorporated on every gear including 1st~5th for the very best in frictionless durability and economy.
Available in a 1st~4th synchromesh engagement, straight cut configuration, the RS5F50A gearset is a normally stocked item which is suitable for the tough street vehicle and both drag or circuit racing applications. A number or ratios are available with an optional overdrive 5th gear set if required.
Features:- Tooth profiles that reduce noise, wear and load forces on the standard OEM transmission housing- Shift retaining rings incorporated into design to eliminate over selection and synchronizer baulking- Retension of OEM 5th gear assembly provides OEM NVH levels during cruise and freeway driving- Straight cut gears (1st~4th) for maximum power transmission and minimal losses- Straight cut gears also minimise thrust forces on the transmission housing- Needle roller bearings minimise friction for maximum durability and economy- Billet 3rd/4th shift fork (Optional)- No extra cost custom ratios
Ratios:- 1st: 3.08- 2nd: 1.85- 3rd: 1.31- 4th: 0.95- 5th: 0.75 (Optional)
Applications:- RNN14 SR20DET- RNU12 SR20DET- HNU13 SR20DET

Awesome info! Would be excellent added to forum articles!
[nb edit double text one section in body]
How much difference in torque front to rear does the transfer case allow; i thought the older system was always around 50/50, vs newer attesa that are like 30/70 computer controlled as required and the awd cuts in or out depending?

created

That was an excellent read on the RS5F50A, best explanation I have ever heard, hands down. This Dog Engagement (RS5F50A)is obviously a product I would like to buy, where is that description from gtir 007? I too shift and launch like a grand ma for fear of grenading my transaxle, love the idea of the optional overdrive (0.75:1), would make the highway cruise a little nicer and more economical on fuel to boot.

from the par website  -  http://www.par-engineering.com/sections/products/products.aspx?typeId=gearsets&manId=nissan

if you get the chance come down to montreal theres a bunch of gtirs here and the guy who tunes them is a nissan expert

PAR ARE JUST THAT - PAR. THEY ARE ALSO CONSIDERED UNDER-PAR by alot of the UK owners.

The phrase, "under FUCKING par" comes to mind. be wary of those gears in the gtir. Quaife and PPG are supposedly better alternatives.