help! alternator keeps blowing

i'd replace the alternator harness and the grounds just in case.

That's what I was thinking. Removed all the wire loom and checked for hotspots but couldn't find any. It a real pain to get at some of the wiring. Are you talking about just the pigtail to the alternator or the wire toing into the relay?

What alternator should I use as a replacement. The G20 is what I've see people use on the forum but do you need the brackets or a spacer on the pulley???

im having the same deal with my car.. ive replaced the alternator once already (seized pully) i installed a rebuilt one from an altima (higher amprage i was told) worked like a charm for 4 months or so, the my battery started dieing on me... kept boosting it untill one day it boosted no more!... i tested the alternator and got a 12.4v reading on the multimeter.. however let me add... by coolant overflow has been randomly overflowing... and since it right about the alternator the alternator gets drenched in coolant while operational... this i believe has something to do with it... im going to replace the alternator and i want to know what other model is suitable.. for our cars

when u replace an alternator, technically you should replace the battery too.  

i also figure its kuz the alternator gets wet and is very close to the very very hot turbo elbow

Ok food for thought.. most of us have done AC deletes... did you put an idler pully in place of the compressor? could be spinning the alternator too fast and burnig it out... and G20 alternators work with no modification.

i did infact do the AC delete... bit i didnt put anything in its place... i just got a smaller belt and im running just Crank and alternator. do i need an idler pully? where do i get one of those?

off topic.....
how do i take off the AC compressor all together i want to replace it with a working one... ive looked around all over the place but cant find one with pictures... just quick vaque descriptions... im a neewb!

i dont' have ac either.  why would u need an idler pulley?  the pulley sizing hasn't changed on the alternator so its not spinning any faster

Here's the end to my story. Got the alternator rebuilt 6 times until it worked. The shop where i took it obviously gave it a warranty so they kept on rebuilding it. The last time that i brought it in they had to wait a day to get in more regulators as i cleaned them out. This tells me that eigther they where using used regulators or had a bad batch. At first they questioned my ability to install it. that realy pissed me off. Is it common for the pulleys to seize cause mine did. Is it because of the location of the alternator to the turbo and elbow????? I have my whole ac in the garage if you need it. Worked really well when removed.

Not sure why you're having those problems.  I removed my a/c i also have an am-performance stainless elbow/downpipe.  So it is even hotter in my engine bay than stock.  My rebuilt alternator lasted about 2 years, which is pretty typical.  I drive daily and i park outside.  I have wrapped my downpipe now, so I think the alternator will last much longer this time.  It's really the heat that kills the alternator bearings, but the brushes go bad if you leave a shitty battery on there.  I'm now running an oddyssey pc925 battery. 

so i had the alternator rebuilt again... the dude confirmed that it was infact fried due to the coolant leaking onto it while running... any idea why my coolant over flow would over flow like that?? anyways the new alt is in and seems to be working A-Okay! hopefully it stays that way.

also on a off topic note.. nick... where did you get the elbow/downpipe... ive got a leak i think on the downpipe and i wanna replace it with a performance elbow and complete the cat back with new piping turbo back!@

I had to do 3 alternators in a month due to a faulty hose clamp for the coolant hose.
Make sure that the clamp is fitted correctly and if you see any traces of coolant having leaked down to your alt that you tighten that clamp or get a new one or new hose if needed.