Hard to start when its cold

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 8:36am
Hard to start when its cold

Hi all!

Just wondering if anyone had similar issues with their R. When the engine is cold the car cranks alot, but won't start easily (does 1-2 explosions once in a while) so I keep on cranking and then it starts. I let it idle and it runs very well although the idle is a little high but when driving the car a bit it goes down to about 1000rpm. As long as the engine is warm it starts up quickly like any other car would.

So far I have:
- Tried another distributor
- Tried another coil
- Tried another ignition amplifier
- Changed FPR (there actually was a problem with the FPR, but it didnt fix this specific issue)
- The fuel hose from filter to rail was pinched a bit, so I moved the filter a bit to fix this
- Tried another MAF

Still, it cranks but wont start easily. I have yet to check the timing tonight but I don't think it's so much out of spec.
Does anyone have similar troubles during winter.

Frank

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 8:45am

Also, there is no CEL code (5-5, all clear)

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 8:49am

you check fuel pump?

I know what it is,it doesnt like that 5zigen exhaust.so i guess you have to sell it ;)

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 4:12pm
celm wrote:

you check fuel pump?

I know what it is,it doesnt like that 5zigen exhaust.so i guess you have to sell it ;)

Haha you gotta try harder :)

And about the fuel pump I just hope I dont have to get to that point as it's a pain and my tank is full. I can hear the pump prime and the fuel flow to the fuel rail when I turn the key to ON, so it should be fine. I've played a bit with the distributor today and lowered my idle from 1500 to ±1000.

I'll try it again later tonight to see if it starts

Frank

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 5:09pm

sure u dont got water in the lines also?

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 6:35pm

If there was water in the lines, it wouldnt run well when it runs. I went for a few spins since I've got the car and the car runs fine. Its just a matter of startup.

Just did a test, 4h after playing with timing it started, hardly but it started.

I'll see tomorrow morning what happens. If it starts it will be a good clue.

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 7:05pm

do a compression test when cold and when its warmed up,also clean out the AAC

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 8:04pm

Whats the best way to clean the AAC? Carb cleaner through the idle screw? That's what I did on P1

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 8:07pm

How cold is cold? Like -35C? I know when i had my car running in the winter it would crank, insanely slowly, for probably 4-5 turns, then fire right up and run like a dream. Even with the tiny japanese battery, it marvelled me how the car could do that. Anyways, i know part of the reason it took so long to start was because of the oil i had in it, super thick even in the summer(dont remember what it was).

Posted: Tue, 02/16/2010 - 8:15pm

Well cold is I'd say -10 or less, and it cranks freely. It's just a matter of explosion not happening, or rarely happening.

I think playing with the timing and idle screw helped me today, but I'll know for sure tomorrow

Posted: Wed, 02/17/2010 - 2:04am
vizi0n wrote:

Whats the best way to clean the AAC? Carb cleaner through the idle screw? That's what I did on P1

what i did was i took it off the plenum and took it apart and used brake cleaner and cleaned the whole thing

Posted: Wed, 02/17/2010 - 2:08am
vizi0n wrote:

Well cold is I'd say -10 or less, and it cranks freely. It's just a matter of explosion not happening, or rarely happening. I think playing with the timing and idle screw helped me today, but I'll know for sure tomorrow

you say your playing with the idel,are you just turning the dizzy or you are putting it into timing mode first?

Posted: Wed, 02/17/2010 - 5:16am

I did put it in timing mode, then adjusted the distributor (thats when I had to tilt it all the way forward to get to 20 degrees) and the idle screw

Posted: Wed, 02/17/2010 - 6:36pm

is it stock computer and injectors?

__________________

13.2 @ 109mph w/ 2.2 60ft //////// garrett 60-1 @18psi, custom Weirtech header, fmic, 720cc injectors, 4" intake, mongoose exhaust, BC coilovers, AEM water/methanol kit, bully stage 4 clutch(highly recommended grips very hard yet engages like a stock clutch!!), and hoping to save up for a straight-cut gearset!!!! Ben

Posted: Wed, 02/17/2010 - 10:15pm

Does your radio work??? I'm trying to remember which one it was, But I use to have the exact same problem, and came to find out my cold start function that primes the fuel pump wasn't working. It was nothing more than replacing a fuse. I think it was an ignition fuse, or as funny as it sounds, it may have even been the radio fuse. I would check all of them for the hell of it. It could be as simple as that and alot of people dont think to check them. Good luck and please let me know if you find the culprit

__________________

Drive it like you stole it

Posted: Thu, 02/18/2010 - 5:53am

It is stock computer and injectors

About the fuses I've checked them already, and they're good. I've played a bit with my timing and now its a bit strange but it might be fixed. I'll see in an hour when I try to leave for work.

Posted: Thu, 02/18/2010 - 5:56am

So how did you make out Frank?

Posted: Thu, 02/18/2010 - 6:34am

Hey there is another thing you can check, I believe there are two different temperature sensors (both by the oil filter if i'm not mistaken) One of them goes to your gauge and one of them goes to your computer to let it know the running temperature to adjust fuel/timing for cold start, If one that signals the computer is bad, it will throw off your cold start as well, just another one to check.

__________________

Drive it like you stole it

Posted: Thu, 02/18/2010 - 7:22am

try swaping the ecu and see what happens

Posted: Thu, 02/18/2010 - 8:31am
AtomicGTiR wrote:

So how did you make out Frank?

Still not working, narrowed it down to AAC valve, as it seems like its acting up when I play with the idle screw. There's quite a bit of oil in my intake piping so it could very well be packed and dirty.

mbsilvia wrote:

Hey there is another thing you can check, I believe there are two different temperature sensors (both by the oil filter if i'm not mistaken) One of them goes to your gauge and one of them goes to your computer to let it know the running temperature to adjust fuel/timing for cold start, If one that signals the computer is bad, it will throw off your cold start as well, just another one to check.

Yeah I'll see after I cleaned the AAC if it doesnt sort my problem.

celm wrote:

try swaping the ecu and see what happens

Unfortunately I dont have another ECU to swap and test or else it would be done already. I always prefer the less messy stuff hehe.

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