Climate control draining battery??

alternator and battery thats toast i bet

you obviously don't have enough power from the alternator and the battery aint holding a charge

load test battery, which i bet is toast
and check voltage at idle min 14 v

prob both need to be replaced

battery and alternator AGAIN? thats the 3rd alternator and 2 battery.. DAMN IT!

Here's how to check:
With key out and a fully charged battery installed, remove the positive cable from the car's battery and securely connect a test light or voltmeter between the cable and positive battery post. [in series]
^if light goes on [even dim] or there is a current draw reading on the volt/ohm meter when the key is off, then you might have a memory type radio or other device drawing current, for starts, pull the radio fuse or other accessory fuse, and the light should go out if there are no other draws.
^If there is still indication of current draw, go to the fuse box and one at a time pull fuses and check the light or meter for a reading.
^if the light goes off by pulling a certain fuse ie. [heater fan climate control etc], or by jiggling a certain wire, look to all accessories on that circuit and diagnose down the line by removing them in turn and observing the light or meter.
[assumed you have cleaned the battery cable connections and battery posts shiny etc and all ground connections are secure.]

ok i checked the voltage on the alt and batt... 14.x on the alt and 12.x on the batt... i boosted the car.. and while at idle i disconnected the negative terminal of the batt... car ran just fine... i plugged it back in and tried to move the car... i first noticed the lights and RPM dip each time i pressed on the brake... then when i turned on the headlights to move the car it shut off.. WTF!?!

i will try that first thing in the morning... each and every fuse..

anyone know of a true JDM mechanic... someone that would have worked on a pulsar many times before?? preferably in the GTA or withing 250kms (thank god for CAA)

Seems like its drawing huge current to kill the battery so fast, i wonder if its a fried coil that might drain that much juice so rapidly. ie. primary vs. secondary electrical system problem. Anything smell burnt or do you see plastic warped/discolored?
Caution around the coil for shocks. Might as well pull the plugs to check for carbon arching/bridging etc.

12volts at the battery?  too low.
i'd see if the alternator harness is bad, get a new one.

and you don't need a "JDM" mechanic for this.. this is an electrical issue which you have to chase down by process of elimination

nothing smells burnt.. i dont see anything that might indicate burnt wires... ill check the plugs.. ill check the fuses... and as for the battery maybe i was reading it wrong.. ill try again tommorow... thanks for the pointers guys! i appreciate it!

i agree with gtirgray get your volt meter the draw has to be some where. and if you have not changed anything to do with your electrical then something thing has burnt out. and i hope you didnt toss all thoes alternators cuz they prob wernt bad.

btw :) put fresh/good batteries for the volt ohm meter too for accurate results esp. in cold conditions. depleted meter batteries render higher indicated volt values

GROUND!  I bet ground :D  check and replace all grounds they all rot out.  
Clean rust , paint and oil from connection points.

check your Battery leads.. are they corroded is there a green crystal formation on the positive terminal? replace em the oem ones are junk.

then do the aforementioned test procedure (which is explained very well!)

ok so ive finally got some time to work on the car... so far.. ive checked all grounds... yes a couple were loose... the alternator ground was off completely! i connected everything back and boosted her again.. she started up fine.. once at normal operating temp... i tried the lights and heater and she clearly wanted to stall... i turned her off to check the grounds again... when i wanted to start her up she wouldnt... boosted her again... same thing.. when i press the brake the lights dim... turned her off... had to boost her again cause it wouldnt start... i checked the fuses... i even pulled everything not essential... same thing... i turn her off after running for a good 10 min and she wont start... each time i turn her off i have to boost her to start. alt reads 14.xx batt reads 12.xx (when i test at the termainal ( 14.xx when i test on the metal of the lead)im gonna take it to an auto electric mechanic!

oops dbl post

again 12 volts at the battery isn't enough, get a new alternator wire

Totally... my alternator's positive lead goes right to the battery.. it's heavy gauge wire. 

so i think i solved it... it was the positive lead connector... it was a little corroded though no green crystals.. the lead appeared dark and blackish.. i replaced it and it seems to be working fine.. however i have not connected any of the fuses back yet.. but im optamistic! thanks for all the help guys! really appreciate it!

wow i was right on my second guess

i guess your the GTi-R god nick

nah.. as soon as he said the car had 14volts at alternator, 12 at the battery, i knew the battery wasn't getting a charge.  could only be two things, battery is toast or the alternator harness was no good