I've looked real hard and can't find the idle screw on the manifold of my 91 gtir.
The individual throttle idles screws are visible but i don't want to play there if it can be adjusted at one spot.
I've viewed the pics of the idle screw on the net showing it as a phillips screw/nut aside the throttle sensor, positioned towards the firewall on the manifold, ...but looking and feeling around i haven't found it there on my car, even under a hose as was indicated elsewhere.
I see the stop for the throttle movement at the right beside the brake reservoir, and wonder if this is it for adjustment on a 91. Hard to get any wrench on the throttle stop screws lock nut let alone the nut. Does it have to be adjusted from below; does the brake reservoir have to move, or is a special type of wrench needed, or ???
The idle speed screw is between the Fuel pressure regulator, and the outlet to the recirc valve. About 3 inches down from the manifold inlet. Sometimes there is a piece of rubber hose about 4 inches long, with holes in the sides, to act as a guide for the screwdriver.
I went from a 530WHP GTR to a 220HP GTi-R, but I'm still smiling....
http://gtircanada.blogspot.com/
Thanks i'll have another look tomorrow and get it done. Even broke out the eye glasses and it was a mystery! Cheers!
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OMG thats where that stupid "holly hose goes to?" I was like WTF is this for!!! thnx for the insight!
Mine isn't bigger than yours.. I just like to drive
Thanks again, found it! The ~4" holey rubber hose was bent flat sideways crammed up into the thick wiring harness ... Must say it's a bit tight, i should remove the tmic brackets still in there for better access.
Here's a good clear pic adapted from zer009 on SR20 forum thread "STOCK IDLE + GTi-R" 200sx showing the 'idle control screw' location. pic adapted from: http://www.sr20forum.com/pulsar-gti-r/201380-stock-idle-gti-r.html
This shows it without the hose on it, minus some brackets and harness in the gtir engine bay; the pic is of a 200sx gtir swap. It's there but hard to see on the gtir hence the rubber hose to guide. The yellow circle magnifies the recessed phillips set screw.
After playing with the idle control screw a bit to little or no effect, i'm of the mind it's the throttle position sensor given some of the symptoms. TPS
Although i should probably breakdown and finally get a laptop running windows to plug the ecutalk consult cable into, to know for certain voltages are being output, and a voltmeter likely could be attached somehow to read the same stuff, ...i feel the the characteristics of the onset of high idle are enough to make me think that the throttle position sensor, TPS, has something to do with the high idle condition that's now wrong with my car.
Here are the symptoms of how the idle changes with startup, warmup, blip throttle, shutdown/turn-on. etc:
When the engine is started without any throttle input, the car after a dead cold start will immediately idle up to 1500rpm, then up a bit perhaps 17-1800 for a few secs, then it settles back on 1500rpm as the engine warms. Within a couple minute or so, the idle speed drops down in small steps to a nice even 1000rpm.
Then, after warmed and idling at 1000rpm, just a simple 'blip' the throttle, and them the rpm goes up to wherever and then falls back to a high idle of 1500, and eventually drops to a steady 1250rpm aprox. Even with only a very slight tap on pedal its the same high idle result.
After warmup with the engine sitting at 1000rpm, go for a sporty drive,[ ie. WOT in places and run it a bit] then coming to a stop, the idle rpm is up to 17-1800 for a few secs, bobbles a couple hundred over several seconds, then _slowly_ settles back on 1500 steady.
Sometimes it will stick for half a minute at 17-1800.
When it's idling up at 17-1800rpm , if the ignition is turned off; and then switched on seconds later, the engine starts normally, revs to 1500 then quickly will drop down to 1250 where it will often stay; otherwise with the next blip of the throttle, it could go to 1500 again and sit there for a long while too.
After shutdown, a cold restart the next morning using the key alone without any throttle input and leaving it sit, gives an idle of 1000 every time.
So... given that the throttle input seems to a factor i took a better look at my car's sensor and found a thin gauge wire ground running from base of the the TPS connection's plug to a bracket on the engine.
I'm not sure if that skinny ground wire is stock for the gtir in that location, or if this is from a later regrounding, which might indicate a problem there to begin with. The wire is about the gauge size used in telephone wiring, i'm wondering how thick it needbe, as the grounding kits sold look to be 4 times as thick.
I'll try re-grounding to the bracket from the connection to see if that makes a difference first.
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***** "May you live in interesting times."
Here's a pic of the gtir holey hose for the idle speed screw [screw inside at end of the tube] on the gtir "IAA"
Well, no change so far and it may be the TPS itself, which isn't good, as its specific for gtir, being backwards in direction of motion of the armature inside compared to some other models; and it costs.
It might be worn out but if it can be rejuvenated any guidelines [ie. dismantle and clean contacts?] would be great.
Below are some of the "other things" resulting in high idle could be that were posted by 'AR4' some years back on the GTIROC forum and also on the SR20 forum, the same thread as above. One poster successfully swapped out one of the components below and solved his 1200 rpm idle.
I hope this may help.....
*****
""Here's something [he] [AJ4 in SR20 forum] wrote for gtiroc about the common causes of high idle on Pulsars
1 : IAS Idle Air Screw. Its part of the IAA ( Idle Air Adjust unit which sits under the right hand side of the plenum chamber ). Used for setting the base idle speed. Is a slotted screw on the side of the IAA and can be seen under the plenum chamber.
2 : AAC Auxiliary Air Control valve. Also part of the IAA unit, this is the main solenoid that the ECU uses ( in conjunction with the Throttle Position Sensor ) to regulate the idle speed. Looks like a round tube fixed onto the IAA unit.
3 : FICD Fast Idle Control Device. Also part of the IAA unit, designed to raise the idle speed whenever the engine comes under heavy load, ie, when aircon is switched on etc. Looks like a small round tube with hex shaped sides, screws into the IAA right next the AAC.
4 : IAR Idle Air Regulator. Sits underneath plenum, works like an automatic choke ( but just for air ). Always switches on whenever you start the car and works on temperature, cold means open ( higher idle ) and gradually closes when intake heats up ( 3 minutes or so ? ). It has a heater inside so will always come on whether the engine is hot or cold and gradually close over the 3 minutes or so. Looks like a small cone with a disc stuck on the end with a pipe on each side.
5 : Worn throttle butterflies / throttle housing. Air leaking past butterflies or leaking in through the spindles.
6 : Throttle balance screws. One screw on each intake, used to balance the four butterlies at idle, can cause high idle if all are adjusted too far out. Can be found on top of the throttle body next to the injectors.
7 : Vacuum ports. One port on each intake that is used with a vacuum guage for balancing the throttle bodies ( see #6. ) Should have rubber boots blanking them off but have been known to disappear... Found next to the throttle balance screws on top of the throttle housing.
8: Igniton too far advanced at idle. Should be 20' +/- 2' for a standard car.
9 : Throttle butterfly stops incorrectly adjusted. Stops the butterflies from closing properly. One screw for each pair of butterflies, usually sealed in place and a right beach to adjust
10 : Accelerator pedal / cable not adjusted properly. Butterflies not closing fully, similar to #9.
11 : TPS Throttle Position Sensor fault or maladjusted. Gives the ECU wrong indication of whether the engine should be idling or not, see also # 2.
12 : Blow off valve leaking. Allowing air to blow past diaphram under vacuum.
13 : Air leak from any of the 3 billion pipes that connect everything above. The pipes are all rubber and do perish over time....
14 : Inlet manifold gasket or Plenum gasket leak.
15 : Faulty Lambda sensor. Used to set the mixture to approx 14.7:1 at low engine speeds / loads. Can cause mixture problems and uneven idle. Can be found on turbo exhaust ( dump ) pipe, bottom left hand side of the engine.
16 : Aftermarket fuel controller set incorrectly. Can be a problem on Apexi PowerFC ECU's where the 'electronic' base idle is set too low for the actual 'mechanical' setting. Causes the idle to hunt and jump around as it tries to achieve an impossible target.
^^^^^^^
The thread from sr20 above indicates many gtir owners have this high idle speed issue; for me i'd like to get it under control so that the rpm roll off on shifts is quicker; there's a better vacuum signal, especially to the BOV; and for fuel consumption when stuck in jams.
Noticed anything "funny" with the exchange rates and parts prices lately:
New Scarier Insider Information: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPg4qTNTP-E
Save Real Money for your Nissan Pulsar Gtir Upgrades!
http://www.canadagtir.com/gallery/user/91gtirgrey/wont-last-long-buy-physical-silver-now
***** "May you live in interesting times."